'A' Rated glass problem or not?

[Winnie2]

I have new 'A' rated glass fitted this week by a reputable firm. On looking at a distance from the outside the glass in one window looked odd i.e. wasnt clear to look through looked wavy/refracted. I thought I was having a migrane! I contact the manager he informed me that you have this problem with 'A' rated glass certain times of the day. Is this correct? Or is it a problem with the frame?

 

[God]

Is it in a door, low level or beside a door as you will normally get a wavey effect if you look at at from certain angles with toughened glass. Which is normal

 

[Winnie2]

It's in windows and yes, the glass is toughened. Window low level. Spoke with manager today and he explained the whole process, he even pressed the corner of the glass outside and to my amazement it was flexible!

Many thanks for your reply. Much appreciated.

 

[noseall]

Whilst glazing has come a long way over the years and as much as i admire the spiel given out by window companies, glazed areas in buildings will always be a source of heat loss in domestic buildings no matter how good the glass.

You would be better off making sure that the fit is tight, the seals are all good and that they are pretty robust when they get the silicon gun going.

Draughts are the biggest killer of heat around openings.

 

[Click4]

Best method I find for draftproofing is, 5mm gap around edge roughly to allow for expansion and contraction, expanding foam around the 3 edges in the 5mm gap.. then silicone sealant over the top on outside, caulking on inside.

then you have not only a thermal separation between the window frame and wall, which means less heat transfer from frame to wall which in turn reduces heat loss anyway and with foam doesnt absorb heat which is another added insulation factor as theres no heat transfer through the foam from the frame to the brickwork.

and with silicone on outside, foam between, then caulking on inside you have 3 layers of draftproofing.

I also use cavity closers on cavity gaps, which removes any cavity drafts also and provides a DPC.

never had a draft on any of the windows fitted, and council always seem impressed at the high standard of installation.

in my oppinion all installations should be done like that... but more often than not, no foam is used around the window and gap is just covered with caulking / silicone. then when the sealant breaks down on the outside a draft occurs.

or if not that the windows are fitted tight against the brickwork.. then the brickwork soaks up all the heat from the frame, which then absorbs more heat from the room.

So much for fensa, lol I saw a door fitted by a fensa registered company and they not only put silicone accross the drains sealing them off but left with daylight visible through the gap between the metal door and frame.

 

[crank39]

Best method I find for draftproofing is, 5mm gap around edge roughly to allow for expansion and contraction, expanding foam around the 3 edges in the 5mm gap.. then silicone sealant over the top on outside, caulking on inside.

then you have not only a thermal separation between the window frame and wall, which means less heat transfer from frame to wall which in turn reduces heat loss anyway and with foam doesnt absorb heat which is another added insulation factor as theres no heat transfer through the foam from the frame to the brickwork.

and with silicone on outside, foam between, then caulking on inside you have 3 layers of draftproofing.

I also use cavity closers on cavity gaps, which removes any cavity drafts also and provides a DPC.

never had a draft on any of the windows fitted, and council always seem impressed at the high standard of installation.

in my oppinion all installations should be done like that... but more often than not, no foam is used around the window and gap is just covered with caulking / silicone. then when the sealant breaks down on the outside a draft occurs.

or if not that the windows are fitted tight against the brickwork.. then the brickwork soaks up all the heat from the frame, which then absorbs more heat from the room.

So much for fensa, lol I saw a door fitted by a fensa registered company and they not only put silicone accross the drains sealing them off but left with daylight visible through the gap between the metal door and frame.

All well and good but what's all that got to do with glass

 

[RB2004]

...

 

[Click4]

Whilst glazing has come a long way over the years and as much as i admire the spiel given out by window companies, glazed areas in buildings will always be a source of heat loss in domestic buildings no matter how good the glass.

You would be better off making sure that the fit is tight, the seals are all good and that they are pretty robust when they get the silicon gun going.

Draughts are the biggest killer of heat around openings.

I was replying in response to that.