1960's house...

What's worrying me is that apart from crappy drop-down pendents, everything has a metal 'base'.

Was looking at these - http://www.homebase.co.uk/webapp/wc...ay?langId=110&storeId=10151&partNumber=141814 - using Megaman 7W LED bulbs.

Chrome base. For £20, doubt is double insulated!

I've noticed that most fittings that have those screws that go into the side of the base with a turn and secure-type thing need an earth connection. Alot of ikea lights are designed to not need an earth for some reason. Maybe have a look?
 
I resent that. Can you point out to me the majority of posts I've made that give bad advice?

Seems that BAS must be off tonight, so I'll do it.

It's ok for the recessed light casing to touch the RSJ's, with timber joists they would cause charring with the heat. You have to choose 1/2 hour fire-rated downlights like the ones from toolstation (which come with a metal recessed cylinder)


Earth wires should be laid on the same route as supply cables and would need to be at least 4mm² if not part of the lighting cable

why? what, for lighting circuits? 4mm is only necessary for radial socket circuits surely. For lighting, you only need 1-1.5mm earth, and you could run singles designed for conduit. If an earth-live fault occurred (happened to me), the fuse would blow instantly assuming there is 5amp wire in the fuseholder, and an RCD would trip on any earth fault regardless of the size of the conductors. Weren't earth wires originally run as un-insulated twisted wire clipped alongside the conductors?


thinking about it, how many lights actually need an earth? even most recessed downlights don't need an earth. Most metal lightswitches are tacky and don't look right in old properties anyway (unless they are really nice quality unlacquered brass or similar, but then they only really go with period properties pre-30's)


so as long as you're just using fittings that don't need an earth, you can just put the earth into a redundant connector block. Like me, you probably don't want to spend thousands rewiring the whole house just because the screws in your plastic lightswitches aren't earthed, if you're worried, get some plastic screws


it's not ideal, but if you want to fit the grey sheathed cable (T&E) into that light fitting, you'll have to just snip off the Earth (green/yellow) wire as close as possible to the sheathing and leave it unconnected.


Every single one contains either wrong or dangerous advice.
 
Either run a new circuit from the CU for the additional points, run a seperate earth to the start of the new wiring back to the MET, rewire the existing circuit, or if needs really must, find a local CPC and connect the start of the CPC for the additional points to that.

No more spaces on the CU - it's fully loaded.

Basically I want to put a light in the loft. I have found the last light fitting on the upstairs circuit, so was going to take a feed from here, run to light fitting then down to existing wall switch on the landing. Now I was planning on using 'crappy' pendants in the loft, taken from existing rooms (and replace those with what I linked to at Homebase)

The current switch by the way is brass, and there's a couple of gold plated lights downstairs - this one from the looks of it http://www.homebase.co.uk/webapp/wc...ay?langId=110&storeId=10151&partNumber=645998

Guess who ever put them up didn't know, and seeing as this is a house where the previous owners blocked off an external door from the inside and left the uPVC door in situ rather than bricking it up, I doubt they've hunted for double insulated stuff.

:( times a million billion trillion zillion!

Is this something a survey should have picked up - it's quite important by the sounds of things.
 
if none of the switches are earthed, i'd replace the brass ones with plastic and get some plastic screws if you're worried about it. Unless you want to rewire the whole house right now, extend the circuit to the loft lights with regular T&E as you've described and snip off the earth or put it into a connector block. If it's easy, you could just run a single (4mm) earth cable into the loft from the CU to earth everything, otherwise, shop around for some fittings that don't need an earth for downstairs. Surveys miss a lot of things btw, inspectors don't usually have any specialist knowledge, and aren't allowed to unscrew or investigate anything as far as I'm aware
 
Did you employ an electrician to provide you with a condition report for the installation?

Surveyors are surveyors, and know nothing about electrics, so all they ever advise it that you employ an electrician to check the wiring.

You don't need a spare way on the consumer unit. Your new wiring can run from an exisitng way.

Is there a socket near the loft? You could maybe run the new lights from there via a fused connection unit.

As for the existing unearthed metal switches, these should be replaced with plastic ones without delay.

It sounds like you really need to be thinking about getting your installation brought up to standards to ensure the safety of your family for years to come.
 
Unless you want to rewire the whole house right now, extend the circuit to the loft lights with regular T&E as you've described and snip off the earth or put it into a connector block.

Please stop saying this. You must NEVER do this.

If it's easy, you could just run a single (2.5mm) earth cable into the loft from the CU to earth everything,

As you've already been told, the minimum permitted size for a singles earthwire without mechanical protection is 4.0mm²

otherwise, shop around for some fittings that don't need an earth for downstairs.

You still MUST run a functioning earth to every point in fixed wiring, regardless of the type of fitting to be connected to it.

STOP giving out dangerous advice on here. You're going to get someone hurt.
 
Unless you want to rewire the whole house right now, extend the circuit to the loft lights with regular T&E as you've described and snip off the earth or put it into a connector block.

Please stop saying this. You must NEVER do this.

If it's easy, you could just run a single (2.5mm) earth cable into the loft from the CU to earth everything,

As you've already been told, the minimum permitted size for a singles earthwire without mechanical protection is 4.0mm²

otherwise, shop around for some fittings that don't need an earth for downstairs.

You still MUST run a functioning earth to every point in fixed wiring, regardless of the type of fitting to be connected to it.

STOP giving out dangerous advice on here. You're going to get someone hurt.

you're like that annoying voice in those self-checkout machines aren't you
 
Did you employ an electrician to provide you with a condition report for the installation?

No.

Surveyors are surveyors, and know nothing about electrics, so all they ever advise it that you employ an electrician to check the wiring.

The thing is, having known this, we might not have bought this house. I've never heard of anybody getting an electrician to verify the circuits before buying. Or gas. Or brick/blockwork. Where does it end?

Is there a socket near the loft?

No.
 
good luck, I don't think I should say anything anymore, I guess you can call it experience with how to communicate and extract advice from obstinate professionals, maybe it's not possible
 
Either run a new circuit from the CU for the additional points,

No more spaces on the CU - it's fully loaded.

I think RF meant to say 'run a new cable from the CU'

Lights are wired as a radial so it would be acceptable to have a new T&E cable, with the earth wire earthed, from the CU to the new light, running from the same fuse/MCB as the existing lighting.

Or use a spur from the power circuit on the floor below. (fused connection unit with a neon will stop the loft light being left on). As the wiring for lights often runs through the loft, it's convenient to have the loft light NOT on the upstairs lighting circuit.
 
good luck, I don't think I should say anything anymore, I guess you can call it experience with how to communicate and extract advice from obstinate professionals, maybe it's not possible
Best advice you have given for the past few days!
 

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