Moving a Multifuel burner for damp coursing.

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Hi,

I'm due to have damp coursing done in our front room - however i need to temporarily move the wood burner for the work to be done and rendering to be sorted (disconnect - in garage for a week or so and reconnect).

Is it easy - or would i need a pro into do it for me?
 
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All that needs to be done is to remove the flue connection, and make it good on reconnection......top exit flues usually have enough 'give' to lift the pipe up an inch or so to pull the burner clear.
Take care, these things are one hell of a weight!
John :)
 
All that needs to be done is to remove the flue connection, and make it good on reconnection......top exit flues usually have enough 'give' to lift the pipe up an inch or so to pull the burner clear.
Take care, these things are one hell of a weight!
John :)

Cool.

Ill post a picture of it later if that's OK for a bit more clarity, as it seems to be sealed around the base of the pipe with some heat resistant type of stuff.

Are the pipes typically screwed into the burners?

Guessing ill need to reseal afterwards too?
 
The flue pipes generally just sit on top of a flange on the top of the burner, andthe seal is made by using fire clay cement, available in tubs.
If the stove is directly connected to a flue liner, there may be a screw or two to locate it.
Special heat resistant tapes are available for wrapping joins too.
John :)
 
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The flue pipes generally just sit on top of a flange on the top of the burner, andthe seal is made by using fire clay cement, available in tubs.
If the stove is directly connected to a flue liner, there may be a screw or two to locate it.
Special heat resistant tapes are available for wrapping joins too.
John :)

Hi John,

Attached is a picture

Ta

Kris

35ip1d2.jpg
 
The flue pipe just drops into a collar on the stove, Kris......you should be able to twist and lift enough to release it - one inch will do! The seal is made from the white fire clay cement that you can see.....black cement is available too.
Good luck with it, and watch your back!
John :)
 
PS - Will the flue support itself?

Someone has mentioned that the liner may need repressurising??
 
Best rig up something that will prevent the flue pipe from descending Kris - maybe a wedge between the flue pipe and the register plate?
Either way, the flue liner mustn't disconnect from the pipe.
As for the liner needing repressurising....haven't a clue about that one!
Be aware, just lift the flue pipe as little as possible to allow the burner out.
John :)
 
Best rig up something that will prevent the flue pipe from descending Kris - maybe a wedge between the flue pipe and the register plate?
Either way, the flue liner mustn't disconnect from the pipe.
As for the liner needing repressurising....haven't a clue about that one!
Be aware, just lift the flue pipe as little as possible to allow the burner out.
John :)

Thanks - all i can see is the pipe disappears through what looks like a hole in a wooden panel. Cant see any high than that.

Will have a gander tonight as work starts Monday
 
Surely either this work is notifiable or needs to be done by an approved fitter? Get it wrong and it leaks and that could be fatal.
 
Has the cause of the damp been identified and rectified ?

Yes, the damp is being treated on Monday.

I need to temporarily move the burner to allow access to the rear of the stove where damp may also need treating.

The burner will be moved back following works.

Its really just an access task - im not doing anything fancy.
 

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