Renault master indicator problem

[camerart]

They call that progress!!! In the olden days we'd have a 555 chip, a few components and a relay. That almost looks like a computer, actually it is probably bigger than some computers!
You may even find it is not even be a relay, it could be transistors driving the outputs (albeit I doubt they are at fault as the indicators are flashing ie the output is switching on and off)
New card time, and lets hope it isn't coded to the vehicle

My olden days go back before yours I think, when there was a bimetal strip, no transistors or chips.

True, it probably isn't a relay. So it must be something that is holding it on. I even doubt a transistor could be held on if it went faulty. A chip could hold on if it goes faulty........DOOMED!! A new card plus programming is about £200 ish.

Camerart.

 

[camerart]

Did I say £200?

Just had a quote for £300.

Camerart.

 

[Spark123]

OUCH

 

[AlanE]

Have a word with these people-

http://www.bba-reman.com/uk/index.aspx

 

[Burnerman]

Hells bells - all this faffing because of an indicator problem......
No wonder perfectly good but older vehicles are destined for the crusher - so unfair!
I'll second the call to BBA though.
John

 

[camerart]

BBA quote approx £150, for a module repair. This won't be on the van, so I'm a bit uncertain.

I'm a bit worried that as this module is key to the van working, security and alarm/immobilising, I will probably go the expensive guaranteed way.

Camerart.

 

[camerart]

To cut a long story short, I went to the Renault specialist, who went through the problem, looking for alternatives to buying a new BCM, and I said it's probably best to buy a new guaranteed one.

He said "Let's give it a diagnostic check first" He found that it wasn't the BCM, but perhaps the Stalk (I had already checked continuity from L/R contact to the chip inside the module.)

I took out the stalk again and found that between the L socket pins, there is a small amount of resistance. I washed it in circuit cleaner, and put a voltage across it to try to burn it out, but it's still there.

At the plug in the van I shorted out the L/gnd pins and it indicated left, and R/gnd = indicate Right. So we've found the problem.

£25 second hand, if I don't clear the resistance.

Camerart.

 

[Burnerman]

Pat on the back time, Mr C!
Let's know what happens.....what resistance are you seeing?
John

 

[camerart]

The trike circuit cleaner dried out and the indicators are now working. The resistance between the socket pins, was around 1Kohm. (Word of warning for anyone opening a stalk 'While apart, indicate with care, as there's no mechanical resistance, so the internals get bent')

Camerart.

 

[Burnerman]

1k.....does that include the bulb, or is it just across the column switch terminals?
Either way, well done to you!
John

 

[camerart]

1k.....does that include the bulb, or is it just across the column switch terminals?
Either way, well done to you!
John

Hi John,

No bulb! Using an ohm meter. View media item 87674 Check between WH/BK and OR/BK on the stalk, and there should be low resistance 0.0 ohms when indicating, and open circuit when not indicating, if it shows any resistance when not indicating then the stalk has a problem.

With the Stalk unplugged (Ign on) the indicators will stop flashing. Note carefully, the corresponding pins in the plug and if you short WH/BK or OR/BK the indicators should flash properly. The stalk is at fault.

(Beware, I've been known to make mistakes!!!)

Camerart.

 

[Burnerman]

Certainly your logic is completely sound.....if it was mine, new stalk it is!
Let's know!
John

 

[camerart]

Cleaning the Stalk internals with circuit cleaner.

Set indicator and light switch central, before opening (This is more apparent once opened) move stalk/switches carefully, so as not to bend the contacts. I suspect verdigris (note the green in the earlier photos) is causing the resistance, perhaps inside the moulding?

View media item 87919
Mine is now fixed ok

Camerart

 

[Burnerman]

That's all it can be, really......obviously every time a contact is made there's a tiny arc which erodes the contacts - hence the use of relays everywhere we look.
Nice job you've done!
John

 

[Dave54]

Of course there is also the situation in that contacts in switchgear which
carry little current and voltage can often get oxidised. I wonder if these switches carry much more than the voltage from the logic on the board, and only a tiny current. "Best practice" would call for contacts of precious metal like gold or platinum, and a design of switch that gives the contacts some "wipe" when they come together so that they have some. Too much modern gear has (of course) neither of these features.
You can try cleaning the contacts with something like this "bootlace"
http://www.canford.co.uk/BANK-CLEANING-TAPE
and / or very careful cleaning with a fine diamond contact file.
Good luck with a repair. It looks as if you have the fault, which is usually 90% of the work in these sort of things.
ETA I just read the part about you having it fixed! Excellent!