Running a duct to a cooker hood

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Hi everyone, I will be doing some work this week which will involve running a 100mm duct along the perimeter of the kitchen ceiling to a cooker hood, and out through a very thick stone cob wall which will need to be drilled.

Before I start, are there are major issues I need to consider? Fire regulations etc?

Also what considerations do I need to make for the ducting through the wall? This is what I intend on using: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p62976?table=no
 
There are better people here to give you advice, and I certainly can't tell you how to get through the cob wall, but I'll start the ball off by saying you want fixed channeling, not the flexi stuff. You'll also want a slight fall on it so that any condensation drains outwards, rather than back into the hood. Whats the size of the kitchen, and the distance to the wall, and what's the fan you're using.
 
Hey doggs. Here is a plan of the room. Hope it makes sense.

plan.jpg


So two internal corners and one external corner
 
Not sure of the dimensions, but I'd say that won't work. You've got 4x90 degree bends, and it's far too long a run for 100mm. If you were to go the other way, you only have 3x90 bends, which still isn't good. It wouldn't look very pretty, but you'd be better off using 150mm flat trunking, and taking it straight over the ceiling, and then boxing it in.
 
Most cooker hood outlets are 125mm or bigger. They come with explicit instructions not to reduce the bore/volume size as it reduces the efficiency of the hood and lessens its lifespan.
Across the ceiling/floor void seems sensible.
 
Hello Hawkeye,
Have you got the cooker hood yet,as Noseall mentioned the technical instructions will have to be followed,Your link to that curly flexi hose looks like a product designed for shower extraction.

Cooker ducting is usually more robust due to the fact the cooker hood could catch fire.
Are you running the ducting above kitchen units or in a void ? plenty of cooker ventilation products available,rigid round duct/flat channel is available in lengths of 2m (longer sometimes).

The extraction rate of your hood will dictate the duct size,flat channel & round duct comes in 3 sizes with all the fittings to suit, see TLC
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/tcl/search?query=ducting&Submit=Search
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Ventilation_Index/Ducting_Flat_5/index.html

In your diagram the last 2 bends could restrict extract flow, if you could forget about getting the duct into the alcove and just run it straight out usually helps to keep the extraction rate high as less restrictions.

Good luck,
 
So I had a good think about this and it sounds as though the venting may be difficult to fit given the layout of the room.

I should mention there is a large double window along the external wall (not shown) which is going to limit my options somewhat.

I appreciate the advice on limiting bends as much as possible, it just makes it harder to vent the cookerhood directly.

What I think I may do now, is to core drill the wall and fit a passive ventilation grille on both sides. This works better for the following reasons:

1) it will not require the tenant to use the cookerhood, which tenant's often don't anyway
2) it will not require difficult running of the ducting, and I'm uncertain about the best way to run it.
3) it will ventilate the whole room and not just the hood, and as this is a basement flat it is likely to make more of difference to airflow.
4) it can be adapted later for ducting, or an active extraction fan if need be, without much trouble.

The tenant has recently had a washing machine installed in the kitchen where previously there wasn't one, and there is a fridge and freezer in the alcove. I suspect this is why a small amount of mold is forming on the skirting behind the appliances. It is a basement flat with a concrete floor, DPM in good condition. No signs of rising or penetrating damp, purely condensation issues from having so many appliances in a smaller, not easy to ventilate, living space. Retro-trickles have been fitted to said window, but I suspect the tenant of closing them when the temperatures drop, and I already know they close the door to the hallway routinely to trap heat into the room.

So, the plan as it stands is to core drill the wall and run a gasket (duct through it) with passive grille either side. If this does not work, I will suspect the tenant of blocking the grille to conserve heat and then we can talk about potential misuse and penalties later down the line.
 
So it a rental property ?

Would have been a good idea to get it all sorted out before inviting a tenant in,maybe seek professional advice as you have legal obligations
 
Sounds as though a humidistat fan might be the best; except the tenant will find a way to get round it, just as they will definitely block a passive vent as son as it gets cold. An alternative would be a heat recovery unit, and the extra cost could be justfied on reduced maintenance/redecoration costs.

I suspect some insulation on the floor will help on the next tenant change over. You've got airflow issues where the mold is forming, as any condensation extracted by the fridge and the freezer, isn't being counteracted by the heat produced from the cooling coil.

But if you can get the vent done sensibly, I find tenants do tend to use them if they are there.
 
Any basement flat will have air flow and mould related issues regardless of occupancy and require extra input to make these spaces liveable.
 
So it a rental property ?

Would have been a good idea to get it all sorted out before inviting a tenant in,maybe seek professional advice as you have legal obligations

Shut the **** up

Think he has a point,tenants have rights and they know them off by heart.

HawKEye from your opening post there was no mention of new mould growth,basement and naughty tenants. so somehow more room air changes have to be introduced.
 
Sounds as though a humidistat fan might be the best; except the tenant will find a way to get round it, just as they will definitely block a passive vent as son as it gets cold. An alternative would be a heat recovery unit, and the extra cost could be justfied on reduced maintenance/redecoration costs.

I suspect some insulation on the floor will help on the next tenant change over. You've got airflow issues where the mold is forming, as any condensation extracted by the fridge and the freezer, isn't being counteracted by the heat produced from the cooling coil.

But if you can get the vent done sensibly, I find tenants do tend to use them if they are there.

I think you're right. The trouble is I didn't have much luck when I tried sourcing the correct fan, they seemed to think the size of the room was a problem, also considering it is an open plan lounge/kitchen, so noise from the fan would likely annoy anyone sitting on the sofa.

I had the external wall thermalined and plastered back in March and it seems to have helped a lot to keep the heat in. It was the only wall not insulated, everything else is.

I also retro-fitted trickles both back and from of the property, and so now I'm stepping it up again.

Insulating the floor is easily do-able so I'lll make a mental note of that for when/if there is a change over.

I think I'll have a go at a passive grille at the moment, only real concern is finding something long enough for the wall as 350mm won't be long enough:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/manthorpe-core-vent-brown-160-5mm-x-350mm/37873

The length of the gasket/pipe will need to be twice this I reckon. I can always improve on the passive grille with an active fan at a later date can't I?
 
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