Baxi 80e Diverter Valve Woes

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Sympton: Radiators getting hot when only HW is selected and running.
OK so I realise the DV is messing about and not fully closing off the CH loop.
Purchase a DV repair kit, service the DV using all parts from the kit, 1st thing that wont fit is the gland that goes onto the bypass pipe, totally different size, so I replace it with the original, so far so good, then the HW connection leaks, new O ring fitted from kit, replaced with original O ring, no leak, sorted methinks.
HW and CH running fine, 2 days later leak from the spindle coming out of the DV manifold (baring in mind these are all new parts from the kit), strip down number 2 replace with original which restores the original problem.
So for my money as others have said service kits are not worth the trouble !
I am now going to get a replacement DV assembly and fit it before winter kicks in.
I can only assume the service kit I got was poor quality parts ! but I am not willing too go through the saga again !
 
I am now going to get a replacement DV assembly and fit it before winter kicks in.
have you done this type of work before :?:,you have a decent but aged boiler your question is very similar to previous asks re 105e baxi appliances.

You have a good boiler,its worth getting repaired :)
 
have you done this type of work before :?:,you have a decent but aged boiler your question is very similar to previous asks re 105e baxi appliances.

You have a good boiler,its worth getting repaired :)

Well I am a qualified sparki and have been plumbing from when I used to go to work with my pop, he used to look after a caravan site, I cut my teeth there repairing burst pipes etc but never bothered with qualies for it, but I do know one end of a tap spanner from the other.
 
Well I am a qualified sparki and have been plumbing from when I used to go to work with my pop, he used to look after a caravan site, I cut my teeth there repairing burst pipes etc but never bothered with qualies for it, but I do know one end of a tap spanner from the other.
(y) great stuff,the built in diverter can be swapped out.Its a bit of a pain and often more work than is usually required.usually it just needs some valves,seals and springs exchanged.
The system has to be clear of debris and not to sludged,there could be a built in filter in one of the flow/return valves.
There are recon/refurbished units available on an exchange-deposit basis but cannot ad link :idea: (ha0 1dx) to any supplier as its advertising but consider purchasing the necessary washers,seals to fit the new valve.

good luck :!:
 
Im in my 50s..been a service engineer since 24,stripping motors,gearboxs etc...I have never seen the point of stripping a 105 dv etc.Even if you swap all the parts etc over correctly,and spend ages cleaning it etc...the extra labour amounts to about the same as swapping the back end of the DV.give or take £50. Its enough of a tit on getting into to swap the bleedin thing without strippin it all...and then takin it in and out due to leaks...Great if its your own boiler and you can take as much time as you like.
 
Absolutely no need to even use a service kit let alone an entire new valve when hw passing to heating it is just a bit of crud on pin sttopping full movement a simple strip clean and grease sorts it , done hundreds with no prob afterwards
 
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Absolutely no need to even use a service kit let alone an entire new valve when hw passing to heating it is just a bit of crud on pin sttopping full movement a simple strip clean and grease sorts it , done hundreds with no prob afterwards
This one was indeed jammed due too crud so I cleaned it polished it with solvol autosol to get the pitting off but that wasnt the problem, it was the O ring in the gland that was buggered, even after cleaning it was too tight and wouldnt move freely, this was where the service kit came in replaced all the stuck bits, moved freely but then started leaking 2 days later absolute rubbish parts, hence no faith in repair kits and ordering replacement valve assembly.
 
Absolutely no need to even use a service kit let alone an entire new valve when hw passing to heating it is just a bit of crud on pin sttopping full movement a simple strip clean and grease sorts it , done hundreds with no prob afterwards
bolx.load of crap....and not so much as renewed a washer or o ring?
 
nope just strip and clean and silicone grease , as i have said its crud on pin stopping full movement and its only about 1mm of a difference , there is no washers disturbed and there is one big O ring on spindle face that a simple wipe and grease is sufficient and never had a prob with the built in insert on the castlated nut either
 
This one was indeed jammed due too crud so I cleaned it polished it with solvol autosol to get the pitting off but that wasnt the problem, it was the O ring in the gland that was buggered, even after cleaning it was too tight and wouldnt move freely, this was where the service kit came in replaced all the stuck bits, moved freely but then started leaking 2 days later absolute rubbish parts, hence no faith in repair kits and ordering replacement valve assembly.

Silicon Grease is your friend.

What is Autosol? Is it like WD40, which should not be used on O rings
 
Silicon Grease is your friend.

What is Autosol? Is it like WD40, which should not be used on O rings
Nope it is a metal polish just to remove marks on the spindle in the hope that it would move freely, and indeed put back together using SG but to no avail as I said earlier
 
So you have never replaced the castellated nut the DHW pin passes through,,just silicone it evertime?for the sake of a part for a tenner why fûke on with it?
 

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