New tiles in bathroom door height

Joined
29 Jan 2008
Messages
73
Reaction score
1
Location
London
Country
United Kingdom
Having a bathroom installed by Wickes and the tiles have been laid on the floor over 15mm board. I had asked for a new door to be fitted which I supplied using the same measurements as the one it was replacing (bought ages ago)

I have now been told that due to the tile height the door will not fit and can only be trimmed 6mm from bottom (door size 1981 x 762 x 35). For the door to fit it, the distance is now 1940 from tile to frame. I also supplied a Z bar door threshold but obviously that is not going to work now so they are ummin and arriing the best approach.

They have told me I need to find a door that is 1940 height but think it shouldn't be my problem now as the old door wouldn't of fit either. Looking in B&Q I cant find any this size.

Question is.

1.) Is the tile height at the door an oversight during tiling? I don't want to spend a fortune on a door. This was simply a moulded white B&Q one.

2.) Have they done it wrong?

3.) What are the options for a door threshold without looking silly?

Along with the door i noticed that the central heating isolation valves seem lower than the tiles now so cant see how they will be able to get the screwdriver in to open them when connecting the new rad.

Thanks
photo5769273584550784562.jpg
 
Sponsored Links
Your problem is the hollow door that you have ,not the tiles and plywood bracing. Can you post pic of door ? I have came across hollow doors, that have to be cut umpteen times . any half decent joiner can sort it.
Can you post pics of isolation valves ,dont know what you mean re those.
 
thanks for the reply. see pic of door and isolation valve which is taped up. If I remember correctly the screw to open the valve is midway on it - pretty sure this is under the tile line. The valve on the other pipe is a bit higher up and I can feel the screw under the tape so not an issue.
 

Attachments

  • photo5769273584550784617.jpg
    photo5769273584550784617.jpg
    179.4 KB · Views: 329
  • photo5769273584550784618.jpg
    photo5769273584550784618.jpg
    137.4 KB · Views: 341
  • photo5769273584550784619.jpg
    photo5769273584550784619.jpg
    135.4 KB · Views: 343
Looks high
Cut the door , clean up the bottom rail and glue it back in .
Could try using a tapered fillet over a few inches width , under the underlay/under the carpet to bring the level up for a metal threshold , or use piece of tile trim and some 30mm strips to face off the step .
 
Sponsored Links
Unless the valves are fitted to pipes ( plastic maybe ?) That can be pulled up and above the tiles ,so the entire valves are accessible, then it could well be a big issue in the future.
Those type of doors are typical of what i have came across ,and can be doctored up. Timber added to the bottom ,inside, glued in.
 
Thanks I have a feeling they put the 15mm board on top of the thin ply that was there before because I remember him saying that the ply was stuck onto the floorboards under previous vinyl. I cant see any of that thin ply in the skip.

So it seems like the door can be cut but it needs a bit of work, maybe something a bathroom fitter cant be bothered to do, although I am sure they must come across it all the time?! He will prob offer an expensive solution.

Good point about maybe the isolation valve can be lifted. I am pretty sure there is no plastic piping feeding that rad though. I also think the pipes are horizontal to the boards quite close to the surface so we will see. Not my problem to solve though. I will be making sure the valves are accessible at the end.

Will have to keep an eye on it all, I noticed the bath didn't have a shallow trap and had to ask him to put one on.

One other thing is the pic the sort of thing that is done with tiling? On one wall the tiles do not go to the ceiling - they stop half way. To match them up at the top part there was a gap at the bottom. The cut offcuts of tiles and they sit proud of the wall?
 

Attachments

  • photo5769273584550784632.jpg
    photo5769273584550784632.jpg
    182.9 KB · Views: 328
Thanks I have a feeling they put the 15mm board on top of the thin ply that was there before because I remember him saying that the ply was stuck onto the floorboards under previous vinyl. I cant see any of that thin ply in the skip.

So it seems like the door can be cut but it needs a bit of work, maybe something a bathroom fitter cant be bothered to do, although I am sure they must come across it all the time?! He will prob offer an expensive solution.

Good point about maybe the isolation valve can be lifted. I am pretty sure there is no plastic piping feeding that rad though. I also think the pipes are horizontal to the boards quite close to the surface so we will see. Not my problem to solve though. I will be making sure the valves are accessible at the end.

Will have to keep an eye on it all, I noticed the bath didn't have a shallow trap and had to ask him to put one on.

One other thing is the pic the sort of thing that is done with tiling? On one wall the tiles do not go to the ceiling - they stop half way. To match them up at the top part there was a gap at the bottom. The cut offcuts of tiles and they sit proud of the wall?
Should of used a spade to rip up the old ply , is not good practice imho
Is only 25 mm of wood bottom of your door then is hollow .
Cut 40mm or whatever from bottom , clean up the piece to remove face board with plane and glue it back in with wood glue few claps .
Half hour job , door weighs nothing .

Bathroom fitter needs to be multi skilled .

The tile skirt detail , hmm looks ok if all round ? Should of planned not to end up with a slither at the bottom , although if its what you want the tile skirt looks ok .

Not saying anything about the isolation valves until you know more
 
Should of used a spade to rip up the old ply , is not good practice imho
Is only 25 mm of wood bottom of your door then is hollow .
Cut 40mm or whatever from bottom , clean up the piece to remove face board with plane and glue it back in with wood glue few claps .
Half hour job , door weighs nothing .

Bathroom fitter needs to be multi skilled .
Thanks it seems like most people have said that the door can be cut / cleaned / glued so I will ask him to do that. He asked me to find a door 1940 in height which I cant seem to find so think it would be a wild goose chase. If he cant do it I will ask him to find a joiner that can. They are charging me £60 for the door hanging, so I expect a better job that I could do myself.
 
Why would you want a "shallow " bath trap ? A trap with a deep seal is sometimes a regulation requirement ,but a shallow one never is.
Didnt really understand your description regarding wall tiles only half way on one wall etc ,nor do i know the reason why the bottom row is fitted as is ,( maybe as floor tile edge's do not meet wall ,as wall is out of true and this is a way to get around that ) but it looks neat enough .
 
Why would you want a "shallow " bath trap ? A trap with a deep seal is sometimes a regulation requirement ,but a shallow one never is.
Didnt really understand your description regarding wall tiles only half way on one wall etc ,nor do i know the reason why the bottom row is fitted as is ,( maybe as floor tile edge's do not meet wall ,as wall is out of true and this is a way to get around that ) but it looks neat enough .
Ok basically there was no trap or u bend on the bath drainage. Its just a right angle elbow that flows under the bath to the drainage stack. Thought it was a building reg? Regarding the tiles, only have one tile high along the sink worktop area. The follows the walls and then meets the full wall tiles. The grout lines all follow a horizontal line, and have full height tiles on the worktop. To get full height tiles top level there had to be a gap on the floor. I assumed its sticking proud because it would be too hard to cut such a thin offcut of tile? I cant say it looks professional though - unless it cant be helped. Just need to know when wickes turn up at the end.
 
Yes there has to be a trap connected to bath. I thought you didn't like the one they fitted and wanted a shallow one !!!
 
Yes there has to be a trap connected to bath. I thought you didn't like the one they fitted and wanted a shallow one !!!
ha no i dont care what it looks like but just assumed a shallow trap is often easier when there is little clearance between base of bath and floor. Thanks for your help everyone
 
when you lay a floor your benchmark - the FFL - is the existing door threshold (s).
judgin by what i can see an what you report, no experienced floor layer or wall an floor tiler prepped anlaid that floor.

the high threshold is a built in trip-trap for a child or old person.
Victorian houses often have step-ups to bedrooms an bathrooms.an step downs to kitchens.
they were thought to prevent drafts but they are usuly true 5" to 7" risers.

i dont now what youve got taped an buried but i do now that rad valves are self isolatin so you dont typicly need isolators lower down the pipe stubs .
no one with an ounce of experience would have buried the rad pipes like that - or left them that tight to the wall.

its almost a guarantee that thers a few other bad news surprises waiting under the prep floor an tile.
 
when you lay a floor your benchmark - the FFL - is the existing door threshold (s).
judgin by what i can see an what you report, no experienced floor layer or wall an floor tiler prepped anlaid that floor.

the high threshold is a built in trip-trap for a child or old person.
Victorian houses often have step-ups to bedrooms an bathrooms.an step downs to kitchens.
they were thought to prevent drafts but they are usuly true 5" to 7" risers.

i dont now what youve got taped an buried but i do now that rad valves are self isolatin so you dont typicly need isolators lower down the pipe stubs .
no one with an ounce of experience would have buried the rad pipes like that - or left them that tight to the wall.

its almost a guarantee that thers a few other bad news surprises waiting under the prep floor an tile.
ok think i should get wickes to come out and have a look at the progress...
 
if youve got a WC to use an somewhere to shower then stop the work an go in an see whoever sold the job to you.
you might be in for a long haul?
theyl tell you to call some "manager" - call ther an then.
dont matter if you get through to a "manager" or not - next, mail a recorded letter sayin what youve got an ask for immediate attention.
dont get excited if they blow you off. dont threaten or shout.
google the complaints against Wickes an see what others have done to get Wickes to do somethin.
Sheds have big legal dept's and aare good at delayin an lettin you live with messed up bathrooms an kitchens,
sometimes for years.
most apointments the " managers" make they wont show an leave you hangin about all day.

the safe an best practice for your bathroom is for it to be ripped out an re-done properly.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top