why use new-fangled incandescent lamps, when you could illuminate your house with traditional rushlights burning tallow?I would not think twice in using a 100W incandescent light bulb
why use new-fangled incandescent lamps, when you could illuminate your house with traditional rushlights burning tallow?I would not think twice in using a 100W incandescent light bulb
I think I got my sums right ...It is really that much. Blimy.
Not surprising - see above!I did notice a reducion in kwh (over the year) at my parents are fitting a few LEDs.
How does this work out if you also consider how much energy is used to heat the house? The tungsten light bulb clearly help heat the house, and is only used when the room is in use. Clearly cost and economy only match if using electric to heat, so using oil or gas the difference in energy costs can change things.I think I got my sums right ...
300W for 4 hours per day = 1.2 kWh/day = 1.2 x 365 = 438 kWh/year
at, say, 16p per kWh, 438 kWh/year would cost 438 * £0.16 = £70.08
Not surprising - see above!
Kind Regards, John
I'm sure you know the answers as well as I do ...How does this work out if you also consider how much energy is used to heat the house? The tungsten light bulb clearly help heat the house, and is only used when the room is in use.
The guidelines (which, as you know, are not regulations) to which you refer mention only immersions, space heating and cooking appliances, not washing machines, tumble driers, dishwashers etc.The regulations advise any fixed item over 2000W should be on its own circuit so as well as the immersion heater we have washing machine, tumble drier, dishwasher, shower, although often we have a dedicated supply to the utilities room, often the kitchen is combined with utilities, so we have a dedicated ring final for that area.
You often refer to that, but how often have you seen a ring final anywhere near 106m long in any 'ordinary' house? Even in my (much larger than 'ordinary') house, none of the ring finals are anything like that long ... and, of course, the 'limits' are, again, only guidelines, not regulations (and only become remotely relevant if/when a circuit is 'fully loaded').We also have a limit of 106 meters of 2.5 mm² with a ring final to ensure volt drop is within limits.
Under 13A there are three items in the home today which can draw over 2kW for an extended time.The guidelines (which, as you know, are not regulations) to which you refer mention only immersions, space heating and cooking appliances, not washing machines, tumble driers, dishwashers etc.
Agreed, and both of those would usually be on dedicated circuits. In fact, some storage heaters draw in excess of 13A, so have to be. ..Under 13A there are three items in the home today which can draw over 2kW for an extended time.
1) Immersion heater
2) Storage heaters ...
Maybe some. Mine draws about 2.2 kW max, and the heating cycles on/off, so unlikley to average at as much as 2 kW over any appreciable period of time.3) Tumble drier (either stand alone or combined with washer)
See above. I can only speak for my tumble drier, but it runs for a maximum of 90 minutes and at an average current which I think is probably significantly under 2 kW (<~8.5A), whereas, if it starts 'cold', my immersion will draw ~13A continuously for 2.5-3 hours.So 30 gallons raised from 10°C to 70°C at 13A will take around 3 hours, where a tumble drier only runs for around 90 minutes, however the immersion in the main switches off at 65°C and on at 55°C so in the main is same load as a tumble drier, so if a immersion needs a dedicated supply why should a tumble drier not need one when in the main the same draw on the system?
I suppose it depends upon what other circuits there are, and where the lights are getting their supply from (and what circuits one thinks are 'likely' to cause RCD trips).I thought differently. I thought what is the most important circuit in the house? And my answer was the light circuits. Therefore I like to put lights on RCBO's.
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