Vertical lead cladding/flashing

[cdbe]

I have a small area of wall that needs covering/cladding - I thought it would be ok done in lead but I'm a complete novice to lead.

In the photo below, it's the area from the top of the exposed section of beam down to the example rafter. It's about a 1m x 0.5m triangle.

Obviously there's a bit more brickwork to come out which will be replaced by some insulation and timber framework finished with plywood or cement board. Ideally I'd like the lead to lap onto the roof tiles and integrate with the conventional stepped flashing that will go further up.
Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated, in particular as I assume it's too big for a single piece of lead, how I would do it? I'm thinking 2 or 3 narrow strips nailed to the board and overlapped from the top?

Thanks.

 

[^woody^]

Presumably this is a DIY desgin, not paid for?

Is the wallplate really below the frame head height?

And are you seriously considering a big sheet of lead to cover that?

 

[cdbe]

Yes. Heavily compromised by the planners insisting on a 2m eaves height on that side of the extension, but we preferred that (with a collared ceiling) to coming in a metre from the boundary so it is what it is.

Yes. See above.

Yes, although I expect a single sheet would be far too big and heavy so it would be some smaller rows. It will be out of sight so I just want something doable, weather tight and maintenance free, I know tile cladding is a possible alternative but it will still need flashing.

 

[^woody^]

By the looks of it, once the roof and flashing is on, its only an area covering the padstone and twice the padstone length along the beam that needs covering. So a sheet of 300mm lead 600-700 long will do.

How to you propose to prevent water that enters the wall above and left of the beam from exiting into the section of wall/ceiling below the beam and to the right of the padstone?

 

[cdbe]

Thanks Woody. I have made a cavity tray of 450mm dpc which is packed up against the inner leaf then sits on top of the steel on a bed of mortar at the back and a temporary strip of 8mm x 40mm wood at the front till the mortar goes off, then the lead will go in under the dpc. I've fitted weep vents fitted at each brick. I'll continue the cavity tray further up with the stepped preformed ones. I was in two minds about bothering with a cavity tray as the brickwork is good but it would be just my luck for it to leak or the building inspector to ask where it was!

 

[^woody^]

That's fine then, you've thought if it. You'll just have to wing the lead, and see what fits once the rod angs flashing position is known.

 

[datarebal]

that tray is of little use... think on

 

[noseall]

I can't even look.

 

[cdbe]

that tray is of little use... think on

Why? I am struggling to get my head round the whole cavity tray business, but if I work on the principle that everything higher overlaps everything below it and the lowest path for any water is "outside".

 

[oldbutnotdead]

That'll be a fun job (getting all those cavity trays in along the roof line).

 

[cdbe]

That'll be a fun job (getting all those cavity trays in along the roof line).

Yes, I'm really not looking forward to it, fortunately it's only the bit in the picture as it meets the wall of the first floor extension on the right, and I have a really good blade for my reciprocating saw that slices through the mortar for fun. What I hate trying to get the joints fully filled when putting it back together - some are only a few mm thick and I can barely get my finger trowel in!

One other thing I'm sure you experts can help me with - what's the hinged flap on the bottom of the tray for? It's from Toolstation.

Thanks.

 

[datarebal]

You gave the rough idea in your head, but that's not what's going to happen here

 

[cdbe]

You gave the rough idea in your head, but that's not what's going to happen here

Okay. As I said, I don't really have any experience of cavity trays and I honestly can't think what's wrong, it would really help me if you could explain what is going to happen, why (if it doesn't become immediately obvious) and what I can do about it.

Thanks.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Presumably (never used them- no cavity walls here) you can poke it down between insulation and inner skin so it sits still & doesn't flap about.

 

[cdbe]

Found out what the flap is, it's a mortar barrier - you build in the tray then when it's gone off you pull the tab and the flap breaks off leaving a slot to fit your lead flashing into.