Oso unvented cylinder mystery

Really?

How many incoming supply cables does it have?

Don't you have an inverter?
 
Sponsored Links
421F98F3-00B7-4EEB-A304-B227F82E31B2.jpeg F86F52A3-BA1C-4ED8-82CD-BC960F29BB10.jpeg
Really?

How many incoming supply cables does it have?

Don't you have an inverter?
 
Judging by your pic, you have an inverter that converts the DC from your panels into AC

Presumably it feeds the AC into your household circuits and the network.

I can only see one supply cable into your iBoost, which presumably comes from your household circut.

I therefore do not believe that your iBoost is capable of supplying DC to the immersion heater.
 
Sponsored Links
I can only see one supply cable into your iBoost, which presumably comes from your household circut.

I therefore do not believe that your iBoost is capable of supplying DC to the immersion heater.

I believe the principle is that a remote sensor measures the current at the meter and when the solar generation has spare capacity ( more than the network will or can accept ) the excess is routed to one or two heaters.

The image has HTR1 and HTR2 and both are labelled + - which strongly suggests it is a DC supply to the heaters,
 
Bernard,
I would agree that + - suggests that it is a DC supply to heaters as that is how I also read those labels.

BUT, the manual, although it does not say DC or 240Vac, it does say Live, Neutral and 13Amps - all suggesting 240Vac.

So my reading (feeling?) is that the diagrams suggest that the heaters (and so the outputs) are 240Vac:
https://www.marlec.co.uk/wp-content...-iBoost-User-Manual-111215.pdf?v=6805cdfd0c7a

Screenshot 2020-02-21 at 12.21.50.png


Screenshot 2020-02-21 at 12.24.41.png

sfk
 
Last edited:
when the solar generation has spare capacity ( more than the network will or can accept ) the excess is routed to one or two heaters.

it sends power to the heater when current generated exceeds current used in the house. i.e. when it detects current flowing down the meter tails instead of up (subject to a small de minimis).

But the inverter changes the DC into AC before it goes into the meter and the house circuit or network. The FITS payment is calculated in proportion to the amount of AC sent into the house and network (the inverter and meter don't know where it goes)

I see no cables carrying DC away from the inverter or into the iBoost. It only receives AC from the house circuit.
 
p.s.

I've got one, but it was £220 down the drain.
 
The system has a current sensor which is clipped onto the Live tails from the meter, this links by wireless to the "controller".

Probably this means that if no current is coming into the house ( invertor supplying all the house needs ) then the immersion heater(s) are switched on by connecting to the house 230 V AC wiring.

Maybe the fault is that the sensor is not talking reliably to the controller or has been incorrectly installed. ( wrong way round or on the Neutral tail )
 
if no current is coming into the house ( invertor supplying all the house needs ) then the immersion heater(s) are switched on by connecting to the house 230 V AC wiring.

No, only if current is actually being sent into the network.

The device seeks to send enough current into the heater to use almost all the current that would otherwise go to the network. it seeks to limit the voltage sent to the heater so that the current is limited (it is only for resistive loads), and the heater does not draw enough to use power from the network.
 
I can send you mine to experiment with, if you try to mend it and return it within 3 months.
 
I assume you have found this page from the manufacturers Marlec

LINK
Yes I have thanks, I had been in contact with them who suggest an option would be to fit the previous model which has AC output but I’m not that keen as it doesnt have a second output. pickup sensor is fitted correctly and the switch has been back replaced
 
Looking at the image of the immersion heater and the multimeter I cannot see a safety over temperature cut out. If the controller fails to the ON state there may be nothing to stop the immersion heater heating water continuously to the point of the tank seriously overheating /boiling.

If the controller is rectifying the AC into DC then any safety cutout would have to be DC rated.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top