The problem with these fancy steels is that there is always a trade off between hardness (durability of edge) and sharpness. The best (sharpest) edge you can get is on something fairly basic like O1 (oil quenching) carbon tool steel, with water quenched tool steels such as W1 just behind it. A1, a commonly used American steel will hold an edge longer, but is never absolutely as sharp. I have no doubts that PMV-11 is going to be harder, but less sharp still, because it is the product of alloying a tool steel with some esoteric mixture of alloying elements (such as tungsten, boron, manganese, molybdenum, titanium, unobtanium, etc). Doing that makes for a larger molecular structure, I'm told, which cannot be taken to such a sharp edge.
So you go for traditionsl carbon steel and you end up touching up more often but have a sharper, if ultimately weaker edge. TBH for hand tool woodworking I can live with that - after all I've hand 5 decades to perfect my figure of eight sharpening technique (I started young). For tasks such as turning, though, the ability of these modern alloyed steels to keep a reasonable edge longer and also to resist burning when ground on a high speed wheel (which can so easily draw the temper of a carbon steel tool when used by the unwary) is a major plus IMHO
Not sure for most site work that I need to go above 1200 grit, especially as i have my old leather strop and some valve grinding paste for those rare, exceptional cuts