Vaillant Turbomax plus 828/e refill tap broken

[cb1980]

We have the above boiler, which was serviced in July, all fine.

I noticed the pressure was a bit low today, so I tried to turn the lever as usual and it broke off in my hand. Looking underneath there is also a screwdriver notch, but I can't budge that (with minimal force anyway, I don't want to strip the screw head and/or have it stuck open).

I don't want the pressure to fall too far for it to come on when it gets really cold (I'll be for it then...).

Can the tap lever be user-replaced (I have found them available online), or is a screwdriver good enough for the occasional use it needs, and/or should I try WD40 or something else to loosen it up?

Thanks,

Chris

 

[cb1980]

Actually, it seems that a radiator bleed key will fit around the square fitting, but I still can't (easily) move it.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Was it a plastic tap/handle which snapped off, if so there is usually a metal square under it, with a thread in the middle for a screw for the handle. Try using an adjustable spanner on the square. Work is a little way back and forth, more and more until you get some flow.

Usually there are two taps, one each end of a flexible filling loop. Both need to be on, to get flow. You could swap out the one at the mains input end (furthest from the boiler) , by isolating both at the stop tap and at the tap nearest the boiler and opening other cold taps in the house to drain down.

Any chance of a photo?

 

[cb1980]

Here's the broken lever:

This is the underside of the boiler, looks like part is stuck in one tap, I can't get the rad key in that one.

 

[CBW]

I’d look at fitting an external loop.

 

[ianmcd]

just use a good sized screwdiver and turn it

 

[cb1980]

I’d look at fitting an external loop

Not sure how that helps me right now. Perhaps something to consider in future.

just use a good sized screwdiver and turn it

I've tried that and it didn't move with as much force as I felt comfortable with, seeing as the boiler is still operational. Is there any way to loosen it up?

 

[dal5band]

I just had a quick look on Ebay - you can buy just the handle you broke, its called a key. Looks like a fancy radiator key. It's probably designed to break before the valve.
In the meantime squirt a little wd40 over several hours to let it soak in. Then try your radiator key, back and forth a little at a time as suggested above.

 

[cb1980]

I just had a quick look on Ebay - you can buy just the handle you broke, its called a key. Looks like a fancy radiator key. It's probably designed to break before the valve.
In the meantime squirt a little wd40 over several hours to let it soak in. Then try your radiator key, back and forth a little at a time as suggested above.

Thanks, that's the answer I was hoping for.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

From your photo - It looks at if the left hand one is open (slot horizontal) in line with the tap. It also looks as if part of the broken knob is still left on the right hand one.

I had in mind, that it was a separate filling loop earlier.

 

[cb1980]

From your photo - It looks at if the left hand one is open (slot horizontal) in line with the tap. It also looks as if part of the broken knob is still left on the right hand one.

I did mention that the broken knob was still partly there earlier, I will have to try and dig the remains out as it prevents the rad key attaching.

What is the effect of the left tap being permanently open? I don't remember there being a key on that one and so I can't imagine I've ever touched it. As I mentioned, it was serviced (by Vaillant) in July so I assume not a major issue.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

What is the effect of the left tap being permanently open? I don't remember there being a key on that one and so I can't imagine I've ever touched it. As I mentioned, it was serviced (by Vaillant) in July so I assume not a major issue.

Looking again at the photo, I might well be wrong on that point and the purpose of that left hand one. You probably have a second tap/valve at the far end of that silver flexible, which disappears around the back. What ever, the idea is to have two isolators between your cold water mains and the heating system. Both need to be turned on, to top up your pressure.

 

[dal5band]

The broken key in the valve is probably jammed in with corrosion or limescale - dig out the bits with a thin screwdriver.
You could top up the system some other way if it goes below limit.

 

[wannocks]

They should both be closed in normal use, and both opened when filling. Most people don't do this, and leave one permanently open.
If one of the valves is stiff persevere with the rad vent key, it will split if you try too hard with a screwdriver. There's also an end stop on the valve. Be sure you're turning it the right way!