What the best way to go mr16 led of gu10 led

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We have just had a extension built on the side of dinning room. The dinning room has one light in the middle of the ceiling I would like to extend with leds I am looking to fit about 10 down light i know I can use mr16 12v led 4w each with a 60w led transfer but not sure if I can use gu10 advice please
 
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Will it OK the run 10 x gu10 in Parallel from one single light switch
If you mean take the actual wires to the lights from the switch, then probably not .
Its only possible if there is a NEUTRAL connection at the switch.

If your meaning can the switch handle switching 10 lights then yes it can, but its likely a Dimmer switch wont be suitable
 
i know I can use mr16 12v led 4w each with a 60w led transfer
Only insane people would do that.

230V GU10, or 230V integrated if you believe stories about them never failing and/or manufacturers having exact replacements available for 10+ years.
 
One is MR16 means it is 50 mm and has a reflector so with quartz GU10 is MR16 as is G5.3 and you can also use an E14 base. Although most LED don't have a reflector as such the lighting trade use the same name for replacement.

An LED needs around 3 volt but more important is the current so we use some form of driver to limit current built into the lamp. With 12 volt the driver in lamp has to match supply and this causes problems, so unless special location better to use 230 volt mains (low voltage) so don't need to worry about matching.
 
Can you please explain why
  • 12V LED lamps require a specific 12V driver. Attempting to use devices designed for 50W halogen lamps will end in failure.
  • The choice and availability of 12V LEDs is tiny compared to the GU10 230V equivalents
  • The 12V versions cost more, and the driver adds even more cost
  • So does the extra installation time, and the fact that there are now twice as many things to go wrong.
  • If you want to change them for dimmable versions, the 12V driver will need to be replaced, which is also vastly more expensive and time consuming than just changing to a 230V dimmable GU10.
 
I can't think of a single reason why you'd want to bother with ELV interior downlights. The 'cons' listed above sum it up nicely. And also if a transformer fails you probably have to dismantle the ceiling to get to it.
 
Thanks for all.your advise I am good the dimmable GU10 one more question do I need a special dimmer switch or one for led
 
I can't think of a single reason why you'd want to bother with ELV interior downlights. The 'cons' listed above sum it up nicely. And also if a transformer fails you probably have to dismantle the ceiling to get to it.
For what it's worth, I would agree - but we have to hope that Brian knows what you mean by "ELV".

Kind Regards, John
 
I have had problems with electronic switch and small LED lamps, it seems some LED lamps have leak resistors and smoothing built in and don't flash when turned off, and don't shimmer when turned on, but some it is either missing or not enough, the flashing can be cured with a load capacitor and using one tungsten bulb can stop shimmer, but I have ended up with 18 spare bulbs that will not work in wife's bedroom lights.

I have found no real way to work out which bulbs are flicker/shimmer less and which are OK, but the electronic switch manufacture tend to do charts of tested bulbs, so select LED dimmer then ensure either you test one or two bulbs first or on the chart of tested bulbs.
 

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