Adding second gang to loop-at-switch for under cabinet lighting

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Hi All,

Long time lurker, first time poster!

I have 4 ceiling downlights in my office (controlled via a single switch on the wall) and under cabinet LED lighting (3x LEDBRITE T5 LED; 8w, 240v) that are each plugged into the mains via three-pin plugs.

I’m trying to do away with powering the LED strips/tubes via the plug and instead via the ring in the ceiling which would then allow me to add another switch at the wall (two gang, two way) to control the under cabinet lights (my aim is to do this so that I don’t have to go around and turn on all LED strips manually; I currently have three and wish to be able to turn them all on with a single switch).

After taking the switch off the wall, the wiring is identical to the attached image and I’m wondering if its a simple as just adding an additional twin-core & earth cable into the switch and bridging the existing COM to the new COM switch, connecting the new LIVE cable to the new L1 switch as well as connecting both the neutral and earth from the new cable to the existing connections.

Hopefully that makes sense (I’ve attached an image of the light switch and the twin+earth I’ve managed to feed through the ceiling and wall cavity)
622F83B2-14A9-4E7F-8A61-CB76DC1EA92A.jpeg

3F657965-C0DD-4D8E-98CB-F8742E6856CD.png


Any help would be appreciated

Thanks
 
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Yes, although the 'com' on the existing switch is actually the lower one with 2 wires in, not the terminal that's marked 'com' with a single wire.
 
Yes, although the 'com' on the existing switch is actually the lower one with 2 wires in, not the terminal that's marked 'com' with a single wire.
I imagine you are correct however my immediate thought: I wonder if that's loop in/out or 2 separate switched cables?
 
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I imagine you are correct however my immediate thought: I wonder if that's loop in/out or 2 separate switched cables?

I believe its loop in/out as I’ve tested both red/live cables that feed into the single L1 port with a voltage detector (with the light switch in the ‘off’ position) and I’m getting a positive reading/hit. @flameport I think you’re right, for some reason the connections on this switch are backwards but I’ll correct when I rewire
 

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