I have a jig for drilling a new recess so should be straight forwards.
Regarding adjusting door with Euro hinge is it- 1) height (so top of door is level with top of frame 2) left or right position 3) something else? In that order?
Adjusting and fitting a Euro hinge
- Thread starter Keitai
- Start date
I have a jig for drilling a new recess so should be straight forwards.
Regarding adjusting door with Euro hinge is it- 1) height (so top of door is level with top of frame 2) left or right position 3) something else? In that order?
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D
Deleted member 174758
(A) Up - down: Loosen only the two screws on the top hinge, pull the door up or push down as required. Retighten. Loosen thevsane to screws on the bottom hinge. Adjust the hinge. Retighten. Repeat as required.
(B) In - out: Adjust as required to get an even gap between the back of the door and the carcass. The door should open and close without binding against the carcass
(C) Left - right: Adjust to get the doors so that the tops of the doors line through (if there are multiple carcasses in a row, e.g kitchen cabinets, double wardrobe doors etc), or to get the top edge of the door to align to the top of the carcass. Re-adjust, as needed, to make the vertical door gapping (I.e the gapping between doors on multi door installations) the same. In kitchens and wardrobes I aim for a 3mm gap to start with and adjust further from there, as needs be
A little tip on aligning multiple hinges: if your hinge boring jig (or guide) only bores the big 35mm hole not the small screw holes (as most do), drill all your main holes, set your hinges in the holes, then line them all up by using a single straight batten, long spirit level, etc. Then drill your location holes for the two small fixing screws. An appropriate size Vix bit (Trend insist on calling these "Trend Snappy centring guide drills", catchy eh? - I prefer "Vix bit", the American name for them) makes this task much easier, more accurate and faster
(B) In - out: Adjust as required to get an even gap between the back of the door and the carcass. The door should open and close without binding against the carcass
(C) Left - right: Adjust to get the doors so that the tops of the doors line through (if there are multiple carcasses in a row, e.g kitchen cabinets, double wardrobe doors etc), or to get the top edge of the door to align to the top of the carcass. Re-adjust, as needed, to make the vertical door gapping (I.e the gapping between doors on multi door installations) the same. In kitchens and wardrobes I aim for a 3mm gap to start with and adjust further from there, as needs be
A little tip on aligning multiple hinges: if your hinge boring jig (or guide) only bores the big 35mm hole not the small screw holes (as most do), drill all your main holes, set your hinges in the holes, then line them all up by using a single straight batten, long spirit level, etc. Then drill your location holes for the two small fixing screws. An appropriate size Vix bit (Trend insist on calling these "Trend Snappy centring guide drills", catchy eh? - I prefer "Vix bit", the American name for them) makes this task much easier, more accurate and faster
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No it will make fitting more difficult.
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Surely, if it's not hooked in the door will be held too far out? Once in then unscrew. I came to this conclusion as it was hooking in when not screwed out much
Last edited:
D
Deleted member 174758
Get it hooked on first,THEN adjust it. Far easier
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