Fair go mate ! We're talking 11 doors here. Surely there's a simple way of fixing the problem. Can anyone tell me which hinge to adjust ? If not, I'll bite the bullet and get a chippy to fix them.
Door frames out of plumb
- Thread starter ozzierenovator
- Start date
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i have told you twice how to do the job lol
perhaps someone else can explain it better than i have
if you move the one hinge diagonally opposite half the distance in the same direction it kicks out/in you will have half the amount at those 2 corners
perhaps someone else can explain it better than i have
if you move the one hinge diagonally opposite half the distance in the same direction it kicks out/in you will have half the amount at those 2 corners
You keep saying PACK the hinges, you dont need to PACK the hinges, as Big-all has said you need to move the hinges forwards or backwards. If you dont understand what he is telling you and you keep asking the same question that has already been answered in great detail, then maybe it would be best for you to get a carpenter in, or maybe look on YouTube they have some educational videos on there that may help.
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No occasion to get nasty ! Obviously my question and BA's complex response doesn't translate too well from the way we describe things here.
no one has actually got remotley confrontational never mind heavy
all comments from all answers have been light hearted and helpfull with no heavy content at all
incase my comments have confused you here is the relivance in this thread
//www.diynot.com/forums/tools-materials/bosch-gcm-10s-mitre-saw.358321/
It all depend's on your buget ,If money is no problem rip out the door frames ,refit extra wide liners to soak up the un plumb wall's if your fund's will strech further re skim the wall's the new liners will make good grounds .
Don't take offence Ozzie I was not being nasty. You say the original hinges were flush fitted not rebated into the lining. Say your hinges are 3 inch buts and about 3mm thick by 20mm wide you would rebate the lining for these dimensions. So now you have a rebate in the lining that is 3mm deep by 20mm wide by 75mm high top and bottom of lining, you should have these exact rebates in hanging edge of the door as well.
You would then screw hinges to door and then screw the opposite leafs to the lining where the rebates are. BUT, your linings are out of wind, so what Big All is trying to explain is that you will have to change the rebated widths depending on which part of the lockside your trying to even out. So for example you may need to increase the top rebate to 21.75mm wide and reduce the bottom rebate to 18mm wide and then fix the leafs to these rebates, this will force the lock side of the door to appear square in its lining.
You will need to ask BA what formula he uses to arrive at the measured adjustments required though.
You would then screw hinges to door and then screw the opposite leafs to the lining where the rebates are. BUT, your linings are out of wind, so what Big All is trying to explain is that you will have to change the rebated widths depending on which part of the lockside your trying to even out. So for example you may need to increase the top rebate to 21.75mm wide and reduce the bottom rebate to 18mm wide and then fix the leafs to these rebates, this will force the lock side of the door to appear square in its lining.
You will need to ask BA what formula he uses to arrive at the measured adjustments required though.
Going by what the OP is describing, the frames are out of twist. If, as you're looking at the door, and for arguments sake the hinges are on the left, the hinge stile of the door is flush with the casing, the lock stile side of the casing the door looks warped because the top is flush with the casing but the bottom is sticking out(I'm sure this is the same as the OP is describing).
If it's the bottom sticking out(as the door is closed) then you need to let the top out, just take out all but one of the screws on the top hinge, just loosen the last screw and let the door drop onto the screw, now put one of the removed screws back but screw it tight to the side of the hinge hole that is the closest to you, take out the other screw(the one you left in when you removed the others) and tighten up the replaced screw. Now with the door closed, the top of the hinge stile will now not be flush with the casing, but the lock stile of the door will be closer to flush with the casing.
I've had to use this method dozens of times(there's nothing worse than having to "fit" a door to someone else's casings.
Unless you replace the casings you will never have all four corners of the door flush with the casing, but the hinge stile proud of the casing is the lesser of the two evils as the eye is always drawn to the lock stile.
HTH and sorry to resurrect an old thread.
If it's the bottom sticking out(as the door is closed) then you need to let the top out, just take out all but one of the screws on the top hinge, just loosen the last screw and let the door drop onto the screw, now put one of the removed screws back but screw it tight to the side of the hinge hole that is the closest to you, take out the other screw(the one you left in when you removed the others) and tighten up the replaced screw. Now with the door closed, the top of the hinge stile will now not be flush with the casing, but the lock stile of the door will be closer to flush with the casing.
I've had to use this method dozens of times(there's nothing worse than having to "fit" a door to someone else's casings.
Unless you replace the casings you will never have all four corners of the door flush with the casing, but the hinge stile proud of the casing is the lesser of the two evils as the eye is always drawn to the lock stile.
HTH and sorry to resurrect an old thread.
Cheers BA,
There seemed to be a lot of talk on the thread but not much of it was in laymans terms (I'm a joiner s understood it all).
Hopefully I've put it in laymans terms!
There seemed to be a lot of talk on the thread but not much of it was in laymans terms (I'm a joiner s understood it all).
Hopefully I've put it in laymans terms!
Well done GM, just one more thing to add, and this was the reason for my request for worst and best.
I would add in the worst case scenario fill the tree screw holes that have been removed, with small wooden plugs dipped in wood glue. Hammer them in carefully until they bottom, then span the plug off in two directions 180o to each other. You can then set the screw further out from the original position gaining more corrective movement...pinenot
I would add in the worst case scenario fill the tree screw holes that have been removed, with small wooden plugs dipped in wood glue. Hammer them in carefully until they bottom, then span the plug off in two directions 180o to each other. You can then set the screw further out from the original position gaining more corrective movement...pinenot
OK Ozzie how did it turn out?
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