Removing MX5 brake disks

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Hi,
I've got my eunos 1993 up on a jack, I've removed the wheel, and the brake caliper.

What holds the disk on apart from the wheel nuts? I don't see a screw on anything, and a 2lb hammer and heat hasn't worked so far. They're pretty rusty!
Cheers, Camerart.
 
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I thought they had a screw or bolt but memory doesn't serve! They will be rusted to the hub so try some penetrating oil and heat, but refrain from bashing the hell out of them as you'll bend the hub.
If they are really stubborn, cut a slot down them with an angle grinder, then in with a chisel to split them .
John :)
Edit- have the replacements got screw locators?
J.
 
I thought they had a screw or bolt but memory doesn't serve! They will be rusted to the hub so try some penetrating oil and heat, but refrain from bashing the hell out of them as you'll bend the hub.
If they are really stubborn, cut a slot down them with an angle grinder, then in with a chisel to split them .
John :)
Edit- have the replacements got screw locators?
J.
Hi J,
There are countersink holes, but there aren't any screwws. I just watched a video and that disk fell off.

I've tried heat and a bit of bashing. I suppose I'll carry on till it gives in.
Cheers, C.
 
Hit it harder.

It will happen, sounds like it didn't have a smear of grease behind it when last changed or they've been on there an awfully long time
 
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hI,
I made a puller from a lathe faceplate and a pair of spring clamps, tightened till I was blue in the face, and all started bending, heat spray hammer. Still on.

When I bought it. it had sat outside for 19 years with no cover.
C
 

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There will be a huge build up of rust on the rear of the disc, where it mates to the hub.
Seriously - on Freelanders and many Fords (Galaxy particularly) where they just wont shift - I grind a slot from the outer perimeter down towards the centre, and then spot drill from there to the actual centre( not breaking through, hopefully) and then split the disc.....which then falls off.
John :)
 
You could try soaking it in diesel around the mating faces, stud/boltholes etc. Diesel works well to penetrate small gaps. Dont try heating it afterwards though :whistle:
 
Hi All,
I was about to get the disk cutter out, but I've also posted on an MX5 forum. The last reply, said use 'the bolt' I had noticed a thread in the disk, but kind of wrote it off, compared to my puller, but it did work.

Both disks needed penetrating oil with time and heat to soak in. This was before reading not to heat after oiling, I alternated them, then the 'bolt' method worked with a crack.
Cheers, thanks, C.
 
Yep they sometimes have a threaded hole or two, the bolt screwed in jacks the disc off the jub.

I doubt you would have got it off without heat though regardless.
 
There’s a thread in the disc between the wheel stud holes that if you put a bolt in and tighten it, it pushes against the drive flange and pushes the disc away from it. Some rear brake drums have the same thread.

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Hi,
After replacing the disks/pads, and adjusting them, I found the handbrake used too many clicks.
I was about to re-adjust with the allen key, then I was notified, that the handbrake is adjusted at the handbrake. This wasn't shown on any of the videos, that I watched.
Cheers, C.
 
I do recall the handbrake isn't brilliant on these, my technique was to ensure the stops on the calipers were right back then turn the allen screws in until the pads were just kissing the discs.....then adjust the cable.
John :)
 
I do recall the handbrake isn't brilliant on these, my technique was to ensure the stops on the calipers were right back then turn the allen screws in until the pads were just kissing the discs.....then adjust the cable.
John :)
Hi J,
Similar! I adjusted the pads till they held the wheel, then as suggested wound back 3/4 turn, then adjusted the handbrake, and it passed the MOT :)

No handbrake turns either.
C
 
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