No, but the door will need to be big enough to get access to the boiler and potentially to remove/replace it in the future. Also, does the cupboard have sufficient ventiation to negate any build ups of gas, fumes, etc? This is very necessary when dealing with gas installationsThe door I'm replacing was very wide and heavy (no fire door strip around it and just magnets) there's a boiler under the stairs. Is it regs to have such a wide heavy door ?
What a complete and utter bodge job! (Both the original and what you propose).If I replace with mdf shall I fill broken hinge area with two part filler then drill in same place or move hinge?
Are you familiar with his work ?What a complete and utter bodge job! (Both the original and what you propose).
What is?For a starter, that isn't MDF, it's OSB (oriented strand board)
I haven't done it yet. That's a curtain on the other side of door stop.No, but the door will need to be big enough to get access to the boiler and potentially to remove/replace it in the future. Also, does the cupboard have sufficient ventiation to negate any build ups of gas, fumes, etc? This is very necessary when dealing with gas installations
What a complete and utter bodge job! (Both the original and what you propose).
For a starter, that isn't MDF, it's OSB (oriented strand board) and in my experience OSB doesn't fill well. Also filler has no strength whatsoever, so filling and drilling it is a DIY bodge of the first magnitude.
Personally I'd try to chop that OSB back behind the plasterboard (leaving the PB proud) and install a softwood or plywood liner around the opening, fixed to the stud frsming, which can then take the weight of the door and will give you something to fix stop laths onto. The edges of the PB on the wall will need some form of bead to protect them from damage as well. The door can then be made up as a braced softwood frame with a thin MDF skin mounted onto conventional 3in butt hinges - because trying to screw a butt hing onto the edge of an MDF door will only result in the MDF failing and the door falling off in due course
In fact the whole original job was sub-par, which is why it has failed - instead of PB I think the original installer should have used MDF to surface the wall because the edges won't crumble and the framing behind it should have been softwood to give the hinge screws something to bite into. Even better than butt hinges, though, a proper job would have required a proper gib door which would have avoided the ugly gaps in the skirting and visible butt hinges - but that takes quite a bit more skill to pull it off
TBH it would have looked better if a reduced height door casing with architraves had been installed in the first place, then that failure would not have occured
Or, as it doesnt need to be as thick as the old one, see if its close enough the size of a kitchen cabinet door for one to be the right size via a bit of lining fettling.As far as doors go wouldn't it be cheaper to cut down a cheap 35mm hollow door, relipping as necessary? It would certainly take me less time and be more likely to be flat than making up a doorfrom scratch. Just a thought
Works well enough on kitchen cupboards that size, even expensive ones.I can't help thinking the idea of having an 18mm "kitchen door" is a bit cheap and nasty.
Indeed - my suggestion was that the casing could be constructed with a standard sized door in mind.It will still need some form of casing, though, if it is to carry an architrave
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