Tried everything but luke warm radiators

Can't find the output directly. Not in installation manual or brochure. Can you work it out from the maximum and minimum burner pressure? I have these.

Also, on checking the manual, I couldn't see where the flow temperature would be displayed. Doesn't seem to be a screen, at least not obvious to me.
 
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Yes, can (or anyone can) calculate from the above, min output is 28 X Sqroot (min gaspressure/max gaspressure).
 
And the boiler flowtemperature??. If its 80C and the minimum output is 12kw (does someone know this figure??) then where is the heat going??.
I have no idea about that no display on the boiler to say as much.
 
Sounds like a circulation problem ,or more to the point a lack of circulation .
 
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Even if all the lock shield valves are wide open, unless so programmer or thermostat turns the boiler off, the TRV's will one by one control each radiator, will warm up, heat the room then cool down as TRV closes, and next easiest radiator for water to go through heats up.

Setting the lock shields means they all heat up together, and having a wall thermostat means when that room heats up sequence stops.

Should use a diferental thermometer to set up the lock shields, but starting closest to boiler, turn off lock shield wait until pipes cold, then turn back on ¼ turn at a time until you feel a little heat on one pipe then stop, will likely be near enough.
You mean turn them all off then open one at a time until lockshield side pipe heats? I have some where the lockshield side is cold the TRV side is warm and radiator is warm. It's like the heat is going in one side but not coming back out the next in order to heat the next rad? Could this be a blockage? Would a power flush possibly solve it. Really don't want to throw money at things if a new boiler would solve the problems.
 
Any idea what a solution might be?
Engaging a good heating engineer to visit and inspect the system would be the thing to do ,there is no substitute for on site investigation . Could be a number of issues ,some of which already mentioned by previous contributors.
Circulation issues mainly are down to pump or system cleanliness.
 
I'm not sure I've even got the right model. I've found the documents for the only model actually called 28SE - full title "Compact 28SE" - but there is a high efficiency version and a standard efficiency version of the compact - and the SE is the "High efficiency" version. Other Vokera models are called HE, which makes more sense! And then there other 28 KW models, like Linea and Unica.


For what it's worth, max burner pressure 9.7, min 1.9, max gas rate 3.19, min 1.34.

I thought to get a efficiency rating they had to a partial load test at 30%, and if that is true it would have to modulate down at least to 30%. Maybe I got that wrong!
 
I'm not sure I've even got the right model. I've found the documents for the only model actually called 28SE - full title "Compact 28SE" - but there is a high efficiency version and a standard efficiency version of the compact - and the SE is the "High efficiency" version. Other Vokera models are called HE, which makes more sense! And then there other 28 KW models, like Linea and Unica.


For what it's worth, max burner pressure 9.7, min 1.9, max gas rate 3.19, min 1.34.

I thought to get a efficiency rating they had to a partial load test at 30%, and if that is true it would have to modulate down at least to 30%. Maybe I got that wrong!
Yeah that's the one in the link
 
Do you have the full name of your boiler, is it Compact 28SE? or Linea or Unica, or something else?

EDIT I think you might have said above and our posts crossed.
 
Engaging a good heating engineer to visit and inspect the system would be the thing to do ,there is no substitute for on site investigation . Could be a number of issues ,some of which already mentioned by previous contributors.
Circulation issues mainly are down to pump or system cleanliness.

Do you have the full name of your boiler, is it Compact 28SE? or Linea or Unica, or something else?
Compact 28 SE
 
What would I be looking for and where
Manual valve will look like a stopcock, an automatic valve will look something like this.......

corgi-22mm-automatic-bypass-valve-03422977L.jpg
 
Engaging a good heating engineer to visit and inspect the system would be the thing to do ,there is no substitute for on site investigation . Could be a number of issues ,some of which already mentioned by previous contributors.
Circulation issues mainly are down to pump or system cleanliness.
Yeah I think that's what I need to do.
 

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