AEG Hob asking for h03v2v2-f

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Hi,

I'm installing my new AEG Hob and have it on a dedicated 32A RCBO and 6mm2 T+E cable. However the manual is asking for H03v2v2-f cable that is rated upto 90c? I'm temporarily installing the hob for now whilst we wait for our counter top templating and installation, so in the meantime assuming the 6mm2 cable is fine, can I just connect that to the appliance or do I need a DP switch in between?
 
I'm installing my new AEG Hob and have it on a dedicated 32A RCBO and 6mm2 T+E cable. However the manual is asking for H03v2v2-f cable that is rated upto 90c?
Only between the wall and hob.

I'm temporarily installing the hob for now whilst we wait for our counter top templating and installation, so in the meantime assuming the 6mm2 cable is fine,
Yes, it will be temporarily but lots of people have it longer than that.

can I just connect that to the appliance or do I need a DP switch in between?
You don't have to have a switch -

but if you did you could use the flex.
 
Thank you for the advice. Can I please confirm that if I chose to leave it permanently wired with the 6mm2 that it would be perfectly fine?

Also if I did use flex from the DP switch to the appliances, is there a particular size I should use?
 
Thank you for the advice. Can I please confirm that if I chose to leave it permanently wired with the 6mm2 that it would be perfectly fine?
All I can say is lots of people do.
Is there an oven under the hob?

Also if I did use flex from the DP switch to the appliances, is there a particular size I should use?
4mm².
 
Thanks. No oven on this circuit, I had a new circuit put in for the new oven going in.
 
Can I also please confirm that it is best practice or advisable to crimp the conductors using a crimp connector and attach those to the appliance?
 
Perhaps if you crimp properly (not with squash flat rubbish) - but not essential.

You cannot crimp the solid cores in T&E (with equipment that people usually have to hand).
 
I was forgetting the size.

Of course 4mm² and 6mm² T&E have stranded wires (except the 4mm² CPC(earth wire)).
 
Hi all,

After having my kitchen fitted the DP switch is now in a very awkward and hard to access place and very soon I'll never be able to access it. Therefore, I'm wondering if it's possible to connect the hob to the supply using a junction box because I have very limited options to place a new DP switch somewhere. The CU is very close to the hob and I can very easily isolate the hob at the CU.

Your advice would be very helpful and appreciated.
 
A quick nudge on this. Mrs is chasing me to have her hob back on :s
 
After having my kitchen fitted the DP switch is now in a very awkward and hard to access place and very soon I'll never be able to access it.
Ok.

Therefore, I'm wondering if it's possible to connect the hob to the supply using a junction box
Well, yes, of course it is but where will this junction box be?

What is happening to the switch and its connections?

because I have very limited options to place a new DP switch somewhere. The CU is very close to the hob and I can very easily isolate the hob at the CU.
As I said before a switch is not compulsory.

However the double-pole is a good idea when faults arise as the RCBO is only single-pole.
 
Many thanks for the input.

The supply cable comes behind the hob, so the two cables are very close to each other but there isn't enough space to mount a pattress box with a DP switch, so I'm looking to use an MF junction box like a Hager 32A Maintenance Free 3 Terminal Junction Box J803 and tuck it behind the kitchen unit.
 
I did exactly that for the oven (similar rating, also on its own circuit). However where we had planned to place the DP switch for the connection, is no longer accessible and the only space I have is behind the draws under the hob but the back of the unit is that flimsy stuff so I'm nervous but mounting anything to that.
 

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