I have swapped bulbs around a few times, and it has worked. However, the main problem seems to be electronic switches, followed closely by two-way switching.
the neutral goes direct to the lamp, and the lines go first to one switch, then the other, so there is bound to be some inductive and capacitive linking. What matters is where is the earth. Three core and earth has one wire one side of the earth, and two the other side
if the blue wire shown in the second picture is the top wire in the first picture, then the earth wire is between it and the other line feeds, otherwise the line in and out are right next to each other, so since we use AC there will be some transfer.
What might solve it is to check if the earth wire is actually connected to earth.
This is of course important, if no earth it would not matter which wire is selected. However, the basic thing is, our wiring was never designed to use LED lights, and the more efficient the lamps are, the more likely we are to get this problem. I like many others I am sure, took a failed LED lamp, and had a look inside, behind the printed circuit is an electrolytic capacitor to stop shimmer when switched on

then on the other side

we have the rectifier, some LED's, a driver chip, and some resistors mainly to leak the capacitor to earth, so we do not get a belt of the bulb if we touch the terminals after it is removed. There are no regulations on how much shimmer when switched on, or how much needs to be leaked when off. And some bulbs are far more complex


so this one was a smart bulb, clearly a lot more inside the bulb. So we are left with, suck it and see. Swap bulbs around until you find one which will work, the result is I have a draw full of bulbs, likely enough to keep my children going for the rest of their life, never mind my life.