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LG Washing Machine fails to heat

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I have one of these LG washing machines that is excellent when working but of late (purchased 2015) the water in the wash fails to heat. The cold inlet is fine as the machine fills up and also runs a complete cycle but the pods don't seem to dissolve either. Contacted my local appliance repair man who told me over the phone it would be an electrical circuit board problem and LG would have to repair it at probably great expense. He suggested it would be better to cut losses and get a new one.

It's such a shame on just a small electrical issue the whole machine should be binned, especially when such a good machine.

Anyone think I have another option ?
 

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Check the heating element first and see if its receiving 240v at the correct terminals.
 
Check the heating element first and see if its receiving 240v at the correct terminals.
Or if it is conducting (resistance check) Assuming you have and know how to use a multimeter. If it has a supply as Jurassicspark says then it's not the circuit board. I can't really understand why your repairer would diagnose that over the phone as elements failing is more common than PCBs. If it is the board, unless you know someone that can repair it for you, then he is probably correct in so much as a repair is probably uneconomical.
 
about 6L off water via the cracked open soap dispenser from the hot tap
That sounds a great idea! Will give it a try thanks.

I have a multimeter but I am a novice how to use it to test something like this but happy to learn.
 
That sounds a great idea! Will give it a try thanks..00

I have a multimeter but I am a novice how to use it to test something like this but happy to learn.

Set the meter, on it's lowest Ohms range, then short the probes, the value shown should drop down to around 1.00. Make sure the machine is unplugged - Now try one probe, on each terminal of the heater element, and report back with the value you see.

Now set the meter for AC 500 or 1000v, the AC section has a sort of tilde/squiggle above a straight line. Attach the probe tips, one each of to the heater element terminals firmly, plug the machine in, switch it on. Allow in to fill with water, whilst watching the meter reading. At a certain stage in the fill, the meter should show 240v, or thereabouts.

The heater element terminals, can be found right at the back/ bottom of the drum.
 
That sounds a great idea! Will give it a try thanks.

I have a multimeter but I am a novice how to use it to test something like this but happy to learn.
started to do this perhaps 15 years ago when washing machines went from duel fill to cold fill only as i automatically have a hot water tank full twice a day
in later years worked out at 14p a unit heating water from cold and a full load full wash cycle would use 0.8 units with a 1600rpm cycle and add on full tumble dry was perhaps 1.8 units or around 30p wash and dry was not worth the effort and odd mess to save perhaps 1-2p saved on electric water heating

the consumption was measured by a plug in energy monitor that only measures that item rather than averages or wild approximates from your smart meter
:giggle:
 
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OK, so I had my brother in law (more experienced with washing machines) test the heating element with a multimeter and it is dead. The replacement part is only about 20 odd quid so worth the gamble I suppose. The reason I say that is because the control panel is not flagging up any error of the element not working (the reason the repair guy seemed to think it was the cause)

Why the repair guy over the phone turned the job down and dismissed it being the element and advised to scrap the machine is beyond me. I mean it's his living.
 
OK, so I had my brother in law (more experienced with washing machines) test the heating element with a multimeter and it is dead. The replacement part is only about 20 odd quid so worth the gamble I suppose. The reason I say that is because the control panel is not flagging up any error of the element not working.

Why the repair guy over the phone turned the job down and dismissed it being the element and advised to scrap the machine is beyond me. I mean it's his living.

That depends upon how easy it is to actually get the element out of the base of the drum.
 
Yes, my brother in law told me it's a hard job but he will do it as he has replaced them before.
 
Ok, I have the replacement and watched a Youtube video on how to get it out. the guy used plyers and it was as simple as pulling carrots. Not so for me. tried pulling the nut on the end of the thread for purchase. It's impossible. Help!
 

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Ok, managed to get it out but being a Muppet I have obviously ordered the wrong part. The saga continues!
 

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Can anyone please direct me to the correct element as I just can't seem to find the right one that fits a 1700W machine as they are usually 1600W.

I would be very grateful as it seems like rocket science.

Thankyou.
 

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