Routers - Trend T8EK or Makita RP2303FC

[HolbornFox]

Hi All,

Has anyone had any real world experience with these routers?

I had always thought that Trend were the go to tbh but i have read the odd iffy review of the routers and it seems they are made by De-Walt anyway?

The Makita is just about the same price so I am wondering if it is the way to go.


This is generally going to be for on-site projects although i would like to be able to add a table at a later date if I ever get the bug for it.

 

[Mr Chibs]

I've got the Makita, it's a beast, it's lovely to use, soft start, very smooth... and I like the depth gauge, with quick override.

I haven't yet, but will install in lifter when I get around to it, a nicer router than my old Bosch blue.

 

[Diver Fred]

I swear by Triton Routers.

But then I wasn't taught to use Plunge routers but they will plunge as well as be capable of Fixed base operation.

 

[GhostIntMachine]

Maybe a bit late to the fray, but I'd suggest that the Makita is a better bet than the Trend T8. The Makita is a true trade/industrial rated tool and parts are probably going to be available for a very long time, based on Makita's track record. The T8, on the other hand, is soutrced from a Chinese company who may or may not be around in 5 or 10 years time (Trend models made by deWalt are the now replaced T10 and T11 as well as the current T12 and T14 which were based on the DW models DW625 and DWE625 respectively). A big plus (to me) of the Makita 2301/2303 models is that in addition to the soft start they also have a power down motor brake. A downside is that Makita don't sell an 8mm collet, instead you need to use a collet reducer, but if you don't intend to use 8mm shank collets, it isn't an issue as 1/4in and 1/2in collets are available. The big Mak also uses the same fence rods as the DW and T10~T14 models if that is of interest

Tried the Triton but didn't like it. It seemed a bit top heavy as a hand held tool, but that's probably subjective. The lack of a 110 volt version in the UK clinched it for me.

To maybe put it in perspective I have a slightly older RP2301FC, a Trend T10elk, Trend T11ek and a deWalt DWE625 as points of comparison. The T10/T11 are nowhere near as smooth running as the Elu MOF177e I owned years ago, and neither is the DWE625. I'd rate the RP2301 as the smoothest of the lot

 

[Bumblebee1987]

I've got the Makita, it's a beast, it's lovely to use, soft start, very smooth... and I like the depth gauge, with quick override.

I haven't yet, but will install in lifter when I get around to it, a nicer router than my old Bosch blue.

Do you have problems with that Makita router? The model is RP2303FC. I get it brand new, and after I turn it on, in 2-3 minutes, just by spinning, when I switch it off, the nut and the collet are extremely hot. Does that sound familiar, or is mine faulty? I do make a small roundover with a 12.7 mm bit on a test piece 400 mm long. After the cut, I can feel the collet, and the nut is hot again.

 

[big-all]

Do you have problems with that Makita router? The model is RP2303FC. I get it brand new, and after I turn it on, in 2-3 minutes, just by spinning, when I switch it off, the nut and the collet are extremely hot. Does that sound familiar, or is mine faulty? I do make a small roundover with a 12.7 mm bit on a test piece 400 mm long. After the cut, I can feel the collet, and the nut is hot again.

that should never happen
heat can only be generated in the collet and nut by slipping as in not enough friction to stop the cutter rotating at a slower rate
so likely problem a 12mm shank in a 1/2"[12.7 ]collet or collet loose
both are extremely dangerous as the cutter can fly out

typical signs off loose cutter is noise[chatter] the rebate or moulding moves or changes in size along the the wood as you move along

 

[Bumblebee1987]

that should never happen
heat can only be generated in the collet and nut by slipping as in not enough friction to stop the cutter rotating at a slower rate
so likely problem a 12mm shank in a 1/2"[12.7 ]collet or collet loose
both are extremely dangerous as the cutter can fly out

typical signs off loose cutter is noise[chatter] the rebate or moulding moves or changes in size along the the wood as you move along

The router has 12.7 p

that should never happen
heat can only be generated in the collet and nut by slipping as in not enough friction to stop the cutter rotating at a slower rate
so likely problem a 12mm shank in a 1/2"[12.7 ]collet or collet loose
both are extremely dangerous as the cutter can fly out

typical signs off loose cutter is noise[chatter] the rebate or moulding moves or changes in size along the the wood as you move along

The bit i use was 12.7, Trend roundover bit. I had 10 of them as i ha e Triton router mounted in table which i build. Its seems strange as i can run my Triton for 30 min and the collet and nut wont have any sign of heat. Its strange there because even without Bit inserted in the Makita, while running for 2-3 when i stop and check the nut is hot. I see 2-3 people mention in youtube comments about this and that was the first thing to check. Couldnt find any more review oor feedback from people or videos abou this.

 

[big-all]

The router has 12.7 p

The bit i use was 12.7, Trend roundover bit. I had 10 of them as i ha e Triton router mounted in table which i build. Its seems strange as i can run my Triton for 30 min and the collet and nut wont have any sign of heat. Its strange there because even without Bit inserted in the Makita, while running for 2-3 when i stop and check the nut is hot. I see 2-3 people mention in youtube comments about this and that was the first thing to check. Couldnt find any more review oor feedback from people or videos abou this.

that is very very strange
the only possible source off heat and in my eyes should never happen is from the windings [the motor] dissipating through the shaft to the collet but iff not under load a free running motor will only be perhaps 15-20% load so zero heat build up so no heat to dissipate to the collet ??
but i am sure an answer may come forward from the makita owners club ??

 

[Bumblebee1987]

that is very very strange
the only possible source off heat and in my eyes should never happen is from the windings [the motor] dissipating through the shaft to the collet but iff not under load a free running motor will only be perhaps 15-20% load so zero heat build up so no heat to dissipate to the collet ??
but i am sure an answer may come forward from the makita owners club ??

I completly forgot to look in google about makita group if there is any. I look at facebook and after googli g i found this page with Mr Chibs saying the router is good so i decide to ask if he has the same thing as mine. Apologies for asking in this page.

 

[big-all]

I completly forgot to look in google about makita group if there is any. I look at facebook and after googli g i found this page with Mr Chibs saying the router is good so i decide to ask if he has the same thing as mine. Apologies for asking in this page.

no problem really
your requests are reasonable and similar /connected and in line so in my eyes no problem as i am and most on here are easy going

 

[Diver Fred]

Do you have problems with that Makita router? The model is RP2303FC. I get it brand new, and after I turn it on, in 2-3 minutes, just by spinning, when I switch it off, the nut and the collet are extremely hot. Does that sound familiar, or is mine faulty? I do make a small roundover with a 12.7 mm bit on a test piece 400 mm long. After the cut, I can feel the collet, and the nut is hot again.

I would suggest that your (new) router has a bearing problem or a bent shaft causing a load on the bearings.
If the collet and that part of the shaft is getting hot after a couple of minutes of running unloaded then there is clearly something wrong with the tool.
Can you return to the dealer you bought it from and ask them to exchange it or refund you.

 

[Bumblebee1987]

I would suggest that your (new) router has a bearing problem or a bent shaft causing a load on the bearings.
If the collet and that part of the shaft is getting hot after a couple of minutes of running unloaded then there is clearly something wrong with the tool.
Can you return to the dealer you bought it from and ask them to exchange it or refund you.

Definetly something wrong with it. I pull out the collet and the nut and i turn the tool on to spin freely. Underneath if i put my finger i can feel the air which is pulling from top is pointing downwords to the bit. I can clearly feel the air is cool, the threaded rod where the nut is attached i can see its spining good and couldnt see any movement when look at it. 2-3 min later i turn off the router. The threded rod and inside it is hot, as well as around the rod, closes body part to the rod is hot. Imaging what will happen when i have to cut the worktops i have to instal in 2 weeks. Probably wont be able the touch the bit and the nut for half an hour. There is return policy of the company i got it, they are Authorised Makita seller as well. When i look at the website its say they avaiting new stocks so that could be the last router they have as it come from Northern Ireland to Ireland for 1 day which is weard. I think this could be returned item as there wasnt dust on it, but there was a marks in the plate as well as 3-4 minor scratched on the body itself.

 

[Bumblebee1987]

I send email directly to Makita service tech. I explain my testing and explain about heating. I got this answer :

Hi,
This is heat transfer through the armature during use & not detrimental to the operation of the tool.

Regards

Hopefully thats sound right and just the time will tell. In the place where I work we have two Makita 3612C routers who after 2 mins of spining with same bit didnt got any sign of heating there.Hopefully thats help anyone with similiar 'problem' when looking for this in google or the forum. Apologies for the author there HolbornFox for using this page.

 

[big-all]

I send email directly to Makita service tech. I explain my testing and explain about heating. I got this answer :

Hi,
This is heat transfer through the armature during use & not detrimental to the operation of the tool.

Regards

Hopefully thats sound right and just the time will tell. In the place where I work we have two Makita 3612C routers who after 2 mins of spining with same bit didnt got any sign of heating there.Hopefully thats help anyone with similiar 'problem' when looking for this in google or the forum. Apologies for the author there HolbornFox for using this page.

i suspect an ai answer or was it a phone call ??

i would get back to them and ask for a correct explanation
you have a motor on perhaps 10-15% load with a fan throwing enough air through to cool it under several times the load

 

[Bumblebee1987]

i suspect an ai answer or was it a phone call ??

i would get back to them and ask for a correct explanation
you have a motor on perhaps 10-15% load with a fan throwing enough air through to cool it under several times the load

Thats answer I get from person in email. It is answer on my question I send to Makita support center through email. Doesnt sound correct in my opinion. Today after inspecting the router again I hear something which i dont hear on my other Triton TRA1 router. Just by hand if you spin the bit on cutting direction its fine. But if you spin it backwards, there is clicking noise, in my opinion loud enough and I have hearing lost since i was 2 years old. My triton router and my trim router ryobi didnt do that at all. I couldnt upload the video of it, but the sound is like - click, click, click, click and so on.