How to remove newel post

[Jon Hepburn]

I recently moved in to a 1970s ex council house and decided the stair balustrade needed a makeover. I removed the bottom newel post fine, but I have some hesitations about the top one. I would’ve ideally just cut the top one and used a zip bolt onto my new post but you can see my issue for yourself below. The newel post is not a standard newel post size (about 78mm x 88mm) and it isnt Centre on the stringer so even if I was to use a zip bolt, I’d only catch a the side of the old post which may crack.

Anyone got any suggestions for what I could do to get my new post (90mm x 90mm) on? I’m not too bad with DIY, however still young so not got much experience hence if anyone has dealt with something similar then I’d appreciate your help.

 

[camerart]

Hi J,
I would buy some box section: e,g, https://www.metals4u.co.uk/materials/mild-steel/mild-steel-box-section/12935-p
Cut off the old newel post leaving plenty sticking up. Trim it so that a length of box section over it, then trim the new one to suit the box section, slide it in and screw it all round with countersunk screws.
Hopefully you shoulkd be able to fill the screws and joins so that it all looks ok.

Does this make sense to you?
C.

 

[Jon Hepburn]

Hi, appreciate the comment. Not sure I quite understand what you mean?

Do you know if this newel post would be structural for the stair case? I don’t believe it is - I lifted some floor boards and the newel post has been cut around them so it must’ve been installed after the staircase went in. I can see there is a tenon on the stringer, I am baffled at how they’ve managed to fit the newel post Right down under the staircase, without a cut or anything? They’ve obviously mortised out for the tenon but not sure how they’ve fitted it and managed to get it under the stairs, it’s a pretty tight space so not much room for movement

 

[camerart]

Hi, appreciate the comment. Not sure I quite understand what you mean?

Do you know if this newel post would be structural for the stair case? I don’t believe it is - I lifted some floor boards and the newel post has been cut around them so it must’ve been installed after the staircase went in. I can see there is a tenon on the stringer, I am baffled at how they’ve managed to fit the newel post Right down under the staircase, without a cut or anything? They’ve obviously mortised out for the tenon but not sure how they’ve fitted it and managed to get it under the stairs, it’s a pretty tight space so not much room for movement

Hi J,
I've only dealt with older buildings, and haven't seen anything like yours.

I don't think yours is actually structural, but it was passed as part of the safety rail, so must be safe and solid. From what you say, I think it was built in as they built the building.
Does this make it clearer?
C.

 

[Jon Hepburn]

Ah right, I understand what you mean. Not a bad idea although the steel would always be on show which I’m not so keen on. I have a one of these cable cameras that you can put down small spaces and there are no signs of screws or bolts holding it in place. Two dowels attaching it into the stringer currently. I’m planning on just trying to chap it out, then Put the new newel post in (but only down to the top of the ceiling (I.e. so it isn’t on show underneath), then plaster up any marks from the old one underneath.

 

[camerart]

Ah right, I understand what you mean. Not a bad idea although the steel would always be on show which I’m not so keen on. I have a one of these cable cameras that you can put down small spaces and there are no signs of screws or bolts holding it in place. Two dowels attaching it into the stringer currently. I’m planning on just trying to chap it out, then Put the new newel post in (but only down to the top of the ceiling (I.e. so it isn’t on show underneath), then plaster up any marks from the old one underneath.

Hi J,
I think the lower end length is for strength, so it doesn't move.

As for the steel, I was thinking it would be filled and painted, so it would disappear..

Make sure it is all central so the new spindles and banister line up.

I don't suppose you remember Barry Bucknell do you? He 'modernised' old houses up to 1950s newness.
He 'modernised my victorian stairs by cutting off the acorns from each newel post and boxing in the spindles, and even cutting some of them.
I had to strip mine down, find and fit new spindles join the banister etc, to bring them back to victorian.
C.

 

[robinbanks]

filled and painted

And adjacent, painted wood? A travesty

Why not clad the existing newel in some nice hardwood?

 

[camerart]

And adjacent, painted wood? A travesty

Why not clad the existing newel in some nice hardwood?

Hi R,
What does 'And adjacent' mean?

'painted wood? A travesty' I agree!
C

 

[robinbanks]

"And adjacent [to the painted steel] painted wood"

= if you paint the steel, you have to paint the wood, and that's a terrible thing

 

[camerart]

"And adjacent [to the painted steel] painted wood"

= if you paint the steel, you have to paint the wood, and that's a terrible thing

Hi R,
Hopefully he can fit the whole new newel post and then paint or not.
C

 

[Jon Hepburn]

Hi J,
I think the lower end length is for strength, so it doesn't move.

As for the steel, I was thinking it would be filled and painted, so it would disappear..

Make sure it is all central so the new spindles and banister line up.

I don't suppose you remember Barry Bucknell do you? He 'modernised' old houses up to 1950s newness.
He 'modernised my victorian stairs by cutting off the acorns from each newel post and boxing in the spindles, and even cutting some of them.
I had to strip mine down, find and fit new spindles join the banister etc, to bring them back to victorian.

No never heard of Barry Bucknell… I’ll look him up!

 

[Jon Hepburn]

And adjacent, painted wood? A travesty

Why not clad the existing newel in some nice hardwood?

It wasn’t centre on the stringer and was twisted badly. It also wasn’t square so I couldn’t find cladding for it anyways

 

[camerart]

It wasn’t centre on the stringer and was twisted badly. It also wasn’t square so I couldn’t find cladding for it anyways

Hi J,
Just remembered from when I learned how to fit dowels. When you drill the hole, drill it very slightly off line, so it tightenes the newel on, when knocked in.
C.