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Electric Fan Heater Thermal Cut Off

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I bought an electric fan heater (stove style) from an auction, and it's brand new but has a fault where the thermal cut off kicks in as soon as the heating elements get current applied to them. I've checked the PCB and all terminals and can't see any signs of blackened cables caused by overheating or a short, and I'm wondering if it's the thermal cut off fuse or the heating elements themselves (there are 3 x of them).

The heater itself is £150 RRP but I only paid £10 at the auctions so I'm not overly bothered if it's knackered, but I suspect it's a simple fault that can be repaired. Not sure if you can help, but any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 

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I bought an electric fan heater (stove style) from an auction, and it's brand new but has a fault where the thermal cut off kicks in as soon as the heating elements get current applied to them.
Does the fan start operating (and operating 'satisfactorily') as soon as the heater is switched on?

The thermal cutout of most fan heaters will operate very rapidly after power is applied to the element if the fan is not operating (satisfactorily or at all).

It could, of course, be the thermal cut-out which is malfunctioning. I once had that problem with a brand new fat fryer.
 
Does the fan start operating (and operating 'satisfactorily') as soon as the heater is switched on?

The thermal cutout of most fan heaters will operate very rapidly after power is applied to the element if the fan is not operating (satisfactorily or at all).

It could, of course, be the thermal cut-out which is malfunctioning. I once had that problem with a brand new fat fryer.

Thanks John

The fan starts and runs OK, and after about 5 x seconds I hear a clicking noise and at that point the fire heating control gives off a beeping noise, and the fan runs for about another 30 x seconds and then shuts down. There is never any heat produced.
 
1745598771772.png


I did wonder if this is the thermal cut off switch, seen similar units on toasters I've repaired - perhaps needs replaced?
 
I'm wondering if the tangential fan and motor bearings are a tad tight and the heat is too much for the TCO before the fan has wound itself fully up to speed. It couldn't hurt to strip and lubricate so as to be sure.
 
Speculatively, looking at the glass envelope on the heating elements, these appear to be a quartz glass IR elements.
Do they start to glow red, before the cut-out (if it is that) operates?
I may be wrong, but if this was set to the lowest heat setting with a single 500W element, I doubt an over heat cut-out would operate so quickly, even if the fan was operating sub-optimally.
 
I may be wrong, but if this was set to the lowest heat setting with a single 500W element, I doubt an over heat cut-out would operate so quickly, even if the fan was operating sub-optimally.

They way they are switched, is all on, or all off - unless the OP disconnects elements..
 
Is this happening with any covers missing? I'm wondering if insufficient air flow to remove the heat.


EDIT reading again I see no heat produced is there any chance the airflow is blocked? (from the pics it doesn't appear to be).

Also I see that crooked element, I doubt it makes any difference but I wouldn't expect to see it like that.
 
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According to the book of words, it's designed for 100 to 120 volts, so there sits your problem.


Pre-Operation / Préparation à l'utilisation / Pre-Operación
Electrical specifications / Caractéristiques électriques / Especificaciones eléctricas
Voltage / Tension / Voltaje :

100 ~ 120 V AC/CA

Frequency / Fréquence / Frecuencia :
50 / 60 Hz
Power / Puissance / Vatios :

1500 watts

GROUNDING INSTRUCTIONS
DANGER: Improper connection of the
equipment-grounding conductor can result
in a risk of electric shock. Check with a
qualified electrician or serviceman if you are
in doubt as to whether the product is
properly grounded. Do not modify the plug
provided with the product. If it will not fit
the outlet, have a proper outlet installed by
qualified electrician.
This product must be grounded. If it should malfunction or
breakdown, grounding provides a path of least resistance
for electric current to reduce the risk of electric shock.
This product is equipped with a cord having an
equipment-grounding conductor and a grounding plug.
The plug must be plugged into an appropriate outlet that
is properly installed and grounded in accordance with all
local codes and ordinances.
This heater is for use on 120 volts circuits. The cord has
a plug as shown at (A) in figure below. An adapter as
shown at (C) is available from your local electronics store
or online supplier for connecting three-blade grounding-
type plugs to two-slot receptacles. The green grounding
lug extending from the adapter must be connected to a
permanent ground such as a properly grounded outlet
box. The adapter should not be used if a three-slot
NOTE: Adapters are
grounded receptacle is available.
NOT for use in Canada.
 
Last edited:
According to the book of words, it's designed for 100 to 120 volts, so there sits your problem.
I'm a bit confused, and wonder whether the book of words you're looking at is the appropriate one for the OP's heater, because ...
1745608944632.png

... although I'm not sure what the "16W" (if that's what is says!) is all about!
 
... although I'm not sure what the "16W" (if that's what is says!) is all about!

That model number, on the label, traces to what appears to be the fan motor. Likely the heater model will be on a label on the outer case of the heater.
 
I got the model from the circuit diagram photo
1745610276693.png
and found a generic manual, I ignored the voltage rating in said manual as
1745610380326.png


As Harry says the 16W relates to the fan assembly.
 
Speculatively, looking at the glass envelope on the heating elements, these appear to be a quartz glass IR elements.
Are the IR elements not usually a dark colour?

I have seen similar looking elements in tumble driers.
 

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