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Double socket power help.

We had out kitchen modernised a few years ago and the guy that did it was a mate (sadly no longer with us) I don't have the confidence to remove them I will keep my fingers crossed they are of decent quality.
 
I once had a kettle plug weld itself into the socket. All BS-whatever marked, all fine in theory, in reality maybe not.
Yes, but the failure will probably be because of a bad connection between the plug and socket, or a wiring fault, or a loose connection with the fuse holder in the plug.
Non of these are failures of the product(s) themselves within BS1363.
 
Or just the springy contacts losing their springiness?

I remember my Dad being firmly of the opinion that mechanically, 13A sockets were inferior to the old round pin ones.
 
If you are "concerned" about drawing too much current,
after each "use",
immediately withdraw the plug of any "high-current" device and feel if either or both the Line and Neutral pins are appreciably warm

They will be "somewhat" warm, but it should not be excessive.
If they are equally mildly warm - OK.
However, if one is appreciably warmer than the other, it indicates a weak plug/socket connection on that "Pin" - which will get worse, over time.
(The Line Pin may be slightly warmer than the Neutral pin, because of the small amount of heat generated by the fuse.)

If you ever encounter this situation of a significant temperature difference in the pins, the socket-outlet should be replaced - for a start.
If the plug is a molded-on type, a fault in it is unlikely, (although it has been known to happen, resulting in a product recall.)
If the plug is a rewireable type, the screw connections should be checked for tightness.
 
If you are "concerned" about drawing too much current,
after each "use",
immediately withdraw the plug of any "high-current" device and feel if either or both the Line and Neutral pins are appreciably warm
Don't do this with anything with a motor, e.g. a vacuum cleaner. If the motor's still spinning it becomes a generator and can make the pins live after pulling out the plug.
 
Or just the springy contacts losing their springiness?

I remember my Dad being firmly of the opinion that mechanically, 13A sockets were inferior to the old round pin ones.
Square pins are an inferior design all round. (Excuse the pun.)
 
Don't do this with anything with a motor, e.g. a vacuum cleaner. If the motor's still spinning it becomes a generator and can make the pins live after pulling out the plug.
I don't expect it continues spinning for long enough for any overheated pins to cool down.
 
Don't do this with anything with a motor, e.g. a vacuum cleaner. If the motor's still spinning it becomes a generator and can make the pins live after pulling out the plug
The motor won't be connected directly from the mains. There would usually be some sort of passive circuit that prevents current flowing backward.
 
Just tested my vacuum cleaner.

At switch-off the motor spins for about 5 seconds,
which is hardly enough time to bend down and extract the plug -
let alone getting to feel the pins 1
 
The BS rating for a single socket is 13A, the BS rating for a twin socket is is 13A (total). The type testing for a twin socket is 14A for one side and 6A for the other, that is maintained for 4 hours and temperature checked.
Note - the single socket is checked with 14A from the socket plus 6A from the terminals, so similar really.
So, in practice, it is (almost) very unlikely to cause problems if all things are good.
I would not trust cheapo sockets but rather decent proprietary makes which usually easily exceed the type testing.
So good brands, good connections, not much worry, It is advisable to avoid heavy-ish loads for long periods though (there are still some of those 3KW heaters around these days and I would avoid one (not just 2) on any socket or any circuit
 
Cylinder vacs can stay running for ages, as there are no brushes to slow it down.

I've had tingles from similar things before. I didn't die, obviously.
 
There are plenty of vacs still deploying the ubiquitous universal motor and even if brushless type, the stator's flux action will soon halt the rotor/armature.
 
There are plenty of vacs still deploying the ubiquitous universal motor and even if brushless type, the stator's flux action will soon halt the rotor/armature.
Do not attempt to dampen flux with a capacitor, who knows what century you will end up in! Just ask Marty McFly
 
I do wonder how any "Induction Motor",
(which operates via the Magnetic Field provided from the Supply)
could generate any Voltage - while "spinning down" -
without the "Magnetic Field" - which was provided only from the "Current Supplied".

An "Induction Motor" contains no "Permanent Magnet"
to produce a "Magnetic Field" -
unlike a Synchronous Motor",
which does have a "Permanent Magnet"
 

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