Is this article a Red Haddock ???

The saving claimed can never really happen, however AC can transfer power by inductive and capacitive linking, which is why every AC LED bulb has a resistor to leak some power around the LED's to stop them either staying on dim or flashing, if we look at the lumen per watt of DC bulbs designed for caravans and boats they are far better to standard household types.

The problem lies in the main with the way we wire lights, the neutral should follow the same route as the line, but we take line only from lamp to switch, so there is some transfer in the switch cable, specially with two-way lighting, with a 100 watt bulb having 0.1 watt loss was not really considered as a problem, with a 6 watt bulb however the % loss is greater.

But the resistor to stop the lamp flashing is built into the bulb, so even if you rewired ones house, so neutral did follow the line, you are still using the same bulbs. Look at the watts total and lumen total for 8 x 5 watt bulbs, and a 40 watt bulb and the 40 watt would be far better, as every bulb leaks the same amount be it 2 watt or 20 watt.

So there may be an odd device where it could help, but like the voltage optimiser very few devices today would it help with, as the power supply to most devices turns AC to DC, then stores it in a capacitor, removing all spikes, then turns it back into AC at a high frequency, then transforms the voltage to voltage required, then back to DC, and it measures the DC voltage and adjusts the mark/space ratio on the electronics making the high frequency AC to keep the volts within required parameters. By time this is done, any spikes are long gone.

The power supply was developed for the front loading VCR machine, the old type power supply produced too much heat, since then it has been used in nearly every device reducing heat and so waste. Even AC devices like fluorescent lamps used the switched mode power supply idea so today even DC bulbs use it, which is how they can work with 10 to 30 volts input. So one may find the odd thing where they can help, but the savings claims are clearly not possible in a normal house, basic fact is everything we plug in uses power, so using a smart adaptor to turn a 20 watt item on/off may save money as it runs for less time, but use it to turn a 1 watt item on/off, likely used more to power the smart adaptor than it saves.

Anyway time I milked my snakes to get the oil out of them.
 
While ever there are gullible people about, there will be people about, more than happy to take advantage of them, with scam products.
 
I love this bit:
1768651449554.png

Of course it has nothing to do with shops/stores not selling fake goods.
 
I've seen a couple of similar "New inventions - £100, special offer £49.99" advertised during YouTube videos recently which seem interesting but when looking on-line to discover more find links to Ali-express etc. where hundreds of this "new invention" are on sale for a fraction of the price.
 
Flameport,
I was thinking that there might be just a small nugget of truth in this part of the statement - not neccasraly all of that little bit of the statement though:-

Edison pushed for DC power — smooth, steady electricity that ran efficiently through devices.
Tesla promoted AC power — easier for power companies to transmit across long distances, but wasteful once it reached homes.

I reckon that any tiny amount of truth/almost truth/"It`s a well known fact" sort of idea (which I prefer to call "A well known fallacy" because in essence many are, yet many believe it must be so cos it is well known).

Years ago I saw a home with a "Voltage Optimiser" and the homeowner was actually totally convonced had saved him a lot of money (It cost him a lot of money in the first place) but when I offered him my advice (before I knew of his actual conviction of the device) that in rare circumstances in industry there might be a little saving, sometimes justified sometimes not he did strive to justify what he believed) .
I think that it does happen when somebody buys something they convince themselves of it`s good usage irrespective of whatever points are made and if they had heard those points beforehand they might well never have bought it.
 
For the record, the device in question is £1.30 including VAT and postage from Aliexpress.

I'm still trying to work out how ebee is going to convert 220000V dc down to whatever voltage his home device requires, without wasting power. Unless of course he is proposing that the network is distributed at 12V dc.
 
BS3036 said:
I'm still trying to work out how ebee is going to convert 220000V dc down to whatever voltage his home device requires, without wasting power. Unless of course he is proposing that the network is distributed at 12V dc.
Click to expand...

I'm sure Ebee wasn't taken in by this ad, he was simply pointing out that it included some true points, to back up their basic lies about the value of the device.
 
BS3036 said:
For the record, the device in question is £1.30 including VAT and postage from Aliexpress.

I'm still trying to work out how ebee is going to convert 220000V dc down to whatever voltage his home device requires, without wasting power. Unless of course he is proposing that the network is distributed at 12V dc.
Click to expand...
A was not even considering using these devices at all, not even from a trusted wholesaler, hence the title of my thread!
 
ebee said:
"Voltage Optimiser"
Click to expand...
That is a completely different thing, before we got the HF fluorescent fitting, the old wire wound ballast was very voltage dependent, I did some experiments with an auto transformer, and that was what the voltage optimiser was, my was on a 58 watt 110 volt fluorescent fitting, and auto transformer was 110 - 0 - 127 volts. So supply in could be either 0 - 110 or 0 - 127 output should be 237 volts.

I found swapping voltage could change current used from 0.5 amp to 0.8 amp, so a string of 25 fluorescent fittings, 12.5 amps to 20 amps the latter was tripping the 16 amp overload. So on the supply to fluorescent lights with wire wound ballasts, the voltage optimiser worked well.

But the HF ballast changed all that, a 58 watt fluorescent lamp was actually using more like 54 watt, and it also increased the light output, and time the tube lasted, so with a HF ballast the fluorescent lamp was on par with the LED, but cheaper to maintain. And the voltage optimiser was no longer any use.
BS3036 said:
I'm still trying to work out how ebee is going to convert 220000V dc down to whatever voltage his home device requires,
Click to expand...
It does seem that is what is done to import or export to France, the power across the channel is DC.
Harry Bloomfield said:
I'm sure Ebee wasn't taken in by this ad, he was simply pointing out that it included some true points, to back up their basic lies about the value of the device.
Click to expand...
That was also what I was thinking, I know this is an extreme case, but most of the silly claims have some element of truth.

I have heard it said many times, an electric heater is 100% efficient, it does not matter if a fan heater, a panel heater, or an oil filled radiator they are all 100% efficient, but this is not true.

If one wants a room at 22°C at 6 pm, and it is at 16°C at 5 pm, then likely the fan heater needs to be switched on at 5:45 pm, the panel heater at 5:30 pm, and the oil filled radiator at 5:15 pm as it has to heat the heater first, so at 2 kW we are using 0.5 kWh, 1 kWh or 1.5 kWh to pre-heat the room,

We must also look at the hysteresis, with likely the oil filled radiator being the best, so better the hysteresis the less over temperture it need to go, so also the less energy is lost.

So to heat room for 1 hour, likely fan heater is best, and for 8 hours likely oil filled radiator is the best. But for one hour, looking at 80% (fan heater) to 57% for the oil filled radiator. But using 8 hours likely both around the same, but the oil filled radiator makes no sound, but the fan heater does, so as soon as the fan stops one feels cold.

There are so many more examples, like heating DHW using oil boiler or immersion heater, in winter heat from the pipes boiler to cylinder is not wasted, but summer it means AC runs longer, so winter likely oil is cheapest, summer electric is cheapest to run.

Same with tumble drier condensor heat the room, and vented does not, and as to heat pump, can't compare as it takes so long.

Need big Clive to strip one down.
 

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