32mm solvent elbow angle problem - please help

[john2k]

Need some advice please. hit a little problem while connecting up a 32mm waste to a solvent Tee on the soil pipe. I've drawn the current layout below. Because the soil pipe a slope unfortunately the 32mm Tee that comes out of the soil pipe to join to the 32mm waste coming from the left is leaning towards the right so now I don't have a 90 degree bend at all. If i force it, it does just about go in but because of the angle i'm assuming it won't seat properly and may no even seal properly even though it's glued. Also because of the angle the amount of pipe that enters the 90 degree elbow wont be as much as if it was correct 90 bend.

could really do with some advice on how to adapt this to make it work. It will be buried behind a stud wall and tiled so needs to be reliable. It is bringing waste from the basin.

 

[terryplumb]

Reduce the angle of the horizontal section coming from the basin by lowering it.

 

[john2k]

Reduce the angle of the horizontal section coming from the basin by lowering it.

Thank you. Didn’t think of that thanks.

 

[Nige F]

92 degree swept bend will help . those 90's are too tight for anything in my opinion

 

[john2k]

92 degree swept bend will help . those 90's are too tight for anything in my opinion

Thanks. Might give this a try tomorrow. Do you think it will manage to offset the difference in angle between the horizontal 32mm pipe and the soil pipe?

 

[Madrab]

Using a swept bend should help, that and given the length of the vertical, fitting that into the soil first and then connecting to the horizontal may give you a extra few extra mill play, with the flexi in the pipe, to get it all to fit nicely.

 

[robinbanks]

For the connection to the soil, use a strap boss that has a slight angle; ensure you're installing it such that it helps you. If you're using a floplast one you'll also get a bit more lean/variability out of the rubber bung in the boss.

Also, solvent weld pipe can be bent and reshaped if you warm it up gently with a heat gun, gas flame etc, so introducing a slight curve will help further. Warm your pipe on 3 quarters of its circumference and then have the cooler part be the inside of the curve when you bend it, to prevent it kinking (stretch the warm part, not compress it). If you're curving a short section, cut a long section, curve it, then cut it to the right length; the bits you ultimately cut off will serve as handles to hold while you reshape up to the point they're no longer needed

If you're at a point where the angle caused by the soil pipe is too great to be smoothed away with these minor adjustments your soil pipe angle is likely too steep and could promote blockages; turds float along slowly on a very shallow angle in the plug of water emitted by the loo. If the pipe is too steep, the water escapes past leaving the waste nothing to float on, so it stops

 

[john2k]

For the connection to the soil, use a strap boss that has a slight angle; ensure you're installing it such that it helps you. If you're using a floplast one you'll also get a bit more lean/variability out of the rubber bung in the boss.

Also, solvent weld pipe can be bent and reshaped if you warm it up gently with a heat gun, gas flame etc, so introducing a slight curve will help further. Warm your pipe on 3 quarters of its circumference and then have the cooler part be the inside of the curve when you bend it, to prevent it kinking (stretch the warm part, not compress it). If you're curving a short section, cut a long section, curve it, then cut it to the right length; the bits you ultimately cut off will serve as handles to hold while you reshape up to the point they're no longer needed

If you're at a point where the angle caused by the soil pipe is too great to be smoothed away with these minor adjustments your soil pipe angle is likely too steep and could promote blockages; turds float along slowly on a very shallow angle in the plug of water emitted by the loo. If the pipe is too steep, the water escapes past leaving the waste nothing to float on, so it stops

Thank you. I used a combination of heating a long spare piece of pipe and slightly bending it and the 92.5 degree bend to just make it work. Only thing is the horizontal 32mm pipe that comes and inserts into the 92.5 bend if it’s supposed to insert let’s say 25mm approx into try bend I only manged to make it insert approx 15/16mm. Felt like it did go in a good amount but I marked it when dry fitting and it was probably around 15/16mm that it managed to go into the 92.5 elbow. There is no tight tension. I put plenty of solvent glue just to make sure it seals. Is this a concern that it didn’t 100% enter all the way to the stop point of the elbow?

 

[terryplumb]

The pipe should insert fully into the fitting. To be on the safe side I would replace, as it's going to be buried and tiled over ,the pipe and fittings are relatively cheap.

 

[john2k]

The pipe should insert fully into the fitting. To be on the safe side I would replace, as it's going to be buried and tiled over ,the pipe and fittings are relatively cheap.

Thank you. The challenge of taking it out and redoing is the 32mm has been solvent welded to the Tee on the soil pipe it would mean having to cut the small vertical pipe from the soil Tee and coupling it. Then either replacing entire stretch it horizontal 32mm again or cutting and coupling that too. Means more joints. It did go in a good amount to be able to make good contact and I’ve run a hose pipe to run water down the pipe and it does seem to be ok. The 32mm is fixed using the brackets in both directions so there’s no movement whatsoever. With all that’s required and the introduction of couplers do u think i should still replace?

 

[robinbanks]

Eahh.. if you managed to get 15mm welded together I wouldn't worry about it too much. That's a decent overlap for a domestic basin
If you wake in the night worrying about it take one of those couplers you have and cut it in half, which gets rid of the internal lip, then cut it lengthways so it can be opened up like a C shape, line its internal with glue and open it up, snapping it onto the pipe like a clamp, next to the existing joint. Then repeat the process with the other side of the coupler, this time snapping it onto so that it bridges the joint between the 92 bend and the other half of the coupler. You have thus a) used one half of the couple to thicken the outer diameter of the pipe to match the bend and b) used the other half of the coupler to create a reinforcement that bonds the 92 to the pipe: it ain't gonna come off

Also worth noting that sometimes fittings are a bit tighter on a dry fit than they are when they have been glued up and left for a short time; the glue cloth acts as lubricant and eats the pipe/softens the outer so they assemble together better

 

[john2k]

Eahh.. if you managed to get 15mm welded together I wouldn't worry about it too much. That's a decent overlap for a domestic basin
If you wake in the night worrying about it take one of those couplers you have and cut it in half, which gets rid of the internal lip, then cut it lengthways so it can be opened up like a C shape, line its internal with glue and open it up, snapping it onto the pipe like a clamp, next to the existing joint. Then repeat the process with the other side of the coupler, this time snapping it onto so that it bridges the joint between the 92 bend and the other half of the coupler. You have thus a) used one half of the couple to thicken the outer diameter of the pipe to match the bend and b) used the other half of the coupler to create a reinforcement that bonds the 92 to the pipe: it ain't gonna come off

Also worth noting that sometimes fittings are a bit tighter on a dry fit than they are when they have been glued up and left for a short time; the glue cloth acts as lubricant and eats the pipe/softens the outer so they assemble together better

Thank you so much. Great tip about cutting the coupler and adding the extra belts and braces. Genius idea. Will be doing this for peace of mind