KITCHEN SOCKETS tripping RCD

The Electrician visited today... no success so far and he's going to start tomorrow by removing all sockets and doing testing that sounded like what you guys have described.

Just to answer a couple of things...

I turned on the outside lights and they work fine - so are on the OUTSIDE LIGHTS MCB.

I have already found and isolated the integrated fridge freezer - as mentioned by someone else - and am currently running that from a socket in the living room via an extension.

I am frustrated by the situation that each time the RCD trips it takes out the boiler... it obviously restarts, but I am always nervous about boilers, so I did ask him if it was possible to put the boiler onto its own RCBO - he implied it was indeed possible. If it is possible, I'd like to do that.

What he did that was different to me, was test the RCD itself, by turning off all MCBs, then pressing the yellow button and turning on all circuits one by one, until it tripped again on KITCHEN SOCKETS... he's satisfied there's nothing wrong there, but mentioned that test was telling him something about "earth leakage". :oops: Oh, and he also checked behind the kitchen wall to ensure the room behind had no nails or screws in it - it hadn't, although we noticed a screw up by the coving in the living room (not within a "safe space" area) and I said to him that I thought a lot of wires do go places via the ceiling space rather than the floor - something to think about.

Beyond that he said the things I'd done so far, with guidance from here, were exactly what he would have done at the start... he reckons that it's something more fundamental. More to come, it seems.
 
The OP still hasn't confirmed whether the outdoor lights are still working, or not?

In the OP's situation, with his claimed lack of knowledge, I would at least try releasing the faceplate screws on the failed sockets, to see if the RCD would then successfully reset - that would at least move his issue a stage forward, towards diagnosis.

It's kinda out of my hands now. ;) I do care about learning approaches, but I care more about the final solution now that I've decided to pay-up.

That an Electrician visited and didn't fix it within five minutes is kinda gratifying (in a perverse kind of way). I now realise I likely did all I could.
 
So the RCD trips as soon as the MCB for kitchen socket circuit is switched to on ,but does the MCB also trip ?
 
The first is definitely true.

The second I believe so.

It's been a few days since I can claim seeing KITCHEN SOCKETS on at all, I can't be 100%. I think he turned all MCBs on and left the RCD down at one point (we were talking things through while he was testing, sorry). I'll pay more attention upon his return.
 
What he did that was different to me, was test the RCD itself, by turning off all MCBs, then pressing the yellow button and turning on all circuits one by one, until it tripped again on KITCHEN SOCKETS... he's satisfied there's nothing wrong there, but mentioned that test was telling him something about "earth leakage". :oops: Oh, and he also checked behind the kitchen wall to ensure the room behind had no nails or screws in it - it hadn't, although we noticed a screw up by the coving in the living room (not within a "safe space" area) and I said to him that I thought a lot of wires do go places via the ceiling space rather than the floor - something to think about.

That just confirms the RCD will operate, it doesn't confirm it operates within spec..

If the sockets are fed down from the ceiling, then there is the extra possibility, that a floorboard nail, or screw, has works its way into one of the cables.
 
As an electrician, two things I want to know, one is the RCD OK, and two is the fault solely due to the kitchen ring final, so cover off the consumer unit, and test the RCD RCD tester ramp.jpg here showing at what mA it trips at, also test it does not trip at 15 mA and does trip at 30 mA and at 150 mA within 40 mS etc, but the test shown is the main one with this fault, how many mA will make it trip, assuming OK then also test the insulation resistance using this tester VC60B.jpgso know if faulty or not, one may also test what the circuits which do not trip the RCD are leaking Diffrence line neutral 8 Feb 24 reduced.jpg but at this stage not so important, so should now know how many MΩ both line to earth and neutral to earth.

Once one is sure there is a fault, next is to find it. Methods vary, we at first look for the easy, which seems unlikely in your case to find anything and the next is step by step hunt, the latter depends on the reading the insulation tester found, a 2 KΩ fault would need one to use the insulation tester while splitting the circuit into smaller and smaller sections, but with say a 2Ω fault the can likely use the multi-meter on buzzer, leaving it buzz, while disconnecting things, far faster if one can hear when the fault has been cleared. And using a 1.5/3/or 9 volt battery one can remove screws while under test, but using 500 volts, one does not want to be touching items while under test.
 

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top