DeWalt DWE7485 table saw quality issues

[big-all]

really nice job bet your pleased

on mine i have made an mdf throat plate and slowly wound the blade through so full support and no gap to aid splintering and stop small /thin bits getting dragged by the blade iff you have the riving knife fitted you need elongate the slot before installing the knife

and if you let the sawdust build up eventually you wont get the saw blade below the surface as the sawdust will just get compressed under the drop mechanism although it will take many 10s off hours

 

[JonBodge]

I made a zero clearance throat plate out of 12mm ply (same stuff I used to build the kitchennette). I'm sure it helps tear out, but cutting plywood I think you are bound to get some. I try to ensure the pretty face is up when cutting, but the other side gets tearout. There's no sawdust build up yet, but then it does have good dust ejection, and it's connected to a vacuum cleaner when running.

Can't use the wooden plate when cutting mitres, though. I could make another with a 45 degree slot but there's no need. I didnt get tearout when mitre-ing the drawer boxes, but the outer layer of ply had its grain going the same direction as the cut, which helps.

One thing I noticed was the Saxton blade I bought - 100 teeth - worked for a few cuts then started burning the cut edge. After trying to clean it (made no difference), I switched to the DeWalt blade the saw came with (I think it's 25 teeth) and it's been OK. Those blades are pretty good. I have adjusted the fence for squareness to the blade so I will try the Saxton again.

Now I am trying to work out what to use for the drawer fascias..

 

[big-all]

hows about the same ply selected and matched for the pattern to follow through with hardwood lipping
the lipping could be say 15x15mm with a 11.5x 6mm rebate [assuming ply is 11.5mm]so the lipping presents a 9mm visible edge at the front and the impression off 15mm thick front
you can off course experiment with visible and actual timber size

 

[JonBodge]

Yes... I did try to keep all the grain the same orientation when I made the drawer boxes, but it's all going to be covered. Only the sides will be seen (and the insides). Lipping seems a bit too much effort for me - I'd probably use iron-on edge trim in birch, to match the ply outer layer. On the other hand, it is easy to mess up the edges along a cutline with ply (either tear out or over sanding, ask how I know), so something with a hockey stick profile would help, I'm sure. Bit of a moot ponit at the moment as I have run out of ply and the bus is the only vehicle I have that is big enough to get the stuff back from Wickes, and it's not road safe right now. Master brake cylinder leak... so my next task is going to be mechanical.

 

[robinbanks]

Now I am trying to work out what to use for the drawer fascias..

For the last kitchen reno I decided to just replace the doors, got some really nice ones made to the millimetre by these guys:

Kitchen cupboard doors - Lowest price guaranteed - HOMESTYLE

HOMESTYLE supply replacement kitchen doors at unbeatable prices. Choose from over 50 designs, 60 finishes and many accessories. Made to measure and delivered for free.

kitchenandbedroomdoors.co.uk

They'll make drawer fronts to whatever size you want

No affiliation, just pleased with the price, finish and service

 

[JonBodge]

Can't do that, it's supposed to be made by JonBodge... but thanks for the tip.

 

[Why Not Indeed]

I'd probably use iron-on edge trim in birch

I wouldn't even bother with that. My desk is just a cut ply edge, finished with PU varnish and looks good to me.