Repeat cut with circular saw

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1 Apr 2013
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Norwich
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United Kingdom
Basically I want to cut pieces of cls into measurement of 600mm. Is there a way to do is bang accurately every time?
 
A real lot? You buy a mitre saw



1773380600666.png


You screw it to a bench, then you cut a block of wood and screw it to the bench exactly 600mm away from the blade, then you use it as a stop to position your CLS, cut, remove, repeat

If by circ saw you mean one of these

1773380797759.png


You can make a jig with some timbers screwed to a bench and form a thing where you can slide a timber in, then run the saw along a fence and it will cut exactly 600
1773381165183.png

Blacks the cut line of the saw, solid orange is the fence and the stop. The support timbers need to be far enough apart that they don’t get cut by the saw . If it sticks off the end of the bench, then all the cut bit will drop out.
So it’s not really the best for this job unless you’re cutting a lot of timber and you want to lay out multiple studs next to each other and cut 600 off all of them in one pass

Also note if you need exactly 600 you’re probably gonna have a fair bit of wasted on every timber because there are multiple of 600 long and you’re so late does have it with so by the time you’ve run four or five cuts you’ll end up with a piece that’s eg 596 long
 
A real lot? You buy a mitre saw



View attachment 410118

You screw it to a bench, then you cut a block of wood and screw it to the bench exactly 600mm away from the blade, then you use it as a stop to position your CLS, cut, remove, repeat

If by circ saw you mean one of these

View attachment 410119

You can make a jig with some timbers screwed to a bench and form a thing where you can slide a timber in, then run the saw along a fence and it will cut exactly 600
View attachment 410120
Blacks the cut line of the saw, solid orange is the fence and the stop. The support timbers need to be far enough apart that they don’t get cut by the saw . If it sticks off the end of the bench, then all the cut bit will drop out.
So it’s not really the best for this job unless you’re cutting a lot of timber and you want to lay out multiple studs next to each other and cut 600 off all of them in one pass

Also note if you need exactly 600 you’re probably gonna have a fair bit of wasted on every timber because there are multiple of 600 long and you’re so late does have it with so by the time you’ve run four or five cuts you’ll end up with a piece that’s eg 596 long
Thats pretty thorough. Thanks. And I get exactly what your saying. Thanks.
 
A real lot? You buy a mitre saw



View attachment 410118

You screw it to a bench, then you cut a block of wood and screw it to the bench exactly 600mm away from the blade, then you use it as a stop to position your CLS, cut, remove, repeat

If by circ saw you mean one of these

View attachment 410119

You can make a jig with some timbers screwed to a bench and form a thing where you can slide a timber in, then run the saw along a fence and it will cut exactly 600
View attachment 410120
Blacks the cut line of the saw, solid orange is the fence and the stop. The support timbers need to be far enough apart that they don’t get cut by the saw . If it sticks off the end of the bench, then all the cut bit will drop out.
So it’s not really the best for this job unless you’re cutting a lot of timber and you want to lay out multiple studs next to each other and cut 600 off all of them in one pass

Also note if you need exactly 600 you’re probably gonna have a fair bit of wasted on every timber because there are multiple of 600 long and you’re so late does have it with so by the time you’ve run four or five cuts you’ll end up with a piece that’s eg 596 long
I have done repeat cuts- non critical joinery quality but still very good by placing the mitre saw on the floor - grass actually and at the distance needed put a heavy weight as a stop. Both the saw and the weight grips the grass and soil better than doing it all an the slabs. No messing with screwing stuff to a bench.
 

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