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Planing?

Discussion in 'Wood / Woodwork / Carpentry' started by BARCUD, 13 Nov 2013.

  1. BARCUD

    BARCUD

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    Hi, I will be using a circular saw for cutting for my projects. A bathroom towel cabinet first. If you guys use a circular saw for long cuts do you make a general cut and then take it to the mark with a plane? The reason I ask is when using the saw the width of the cut itself is quite wide and so that could throw a measurement out by a mm or 2.
     
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  3. big-all

    big-all

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    a bathroom cabinet can be 2mm out it wont matter
    plan your cabinet lets say its 200mm deep you cut one or more strips 200mm deep
    mark the board at 200mm lay the saw with the blade on the mark
    measure from the saw base back edge to the board edge
    lets assume thats 300mm you mark 300mm in pencil on the tape
    you then mark the board with 2/3 or4 marks lay your baton on the mark and clamp
    you can do this several times and you will be within 0.5mm

    if you get a track/plunge saw its 10 times quicker :D
     
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  4. foxhole

    foxhole

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    You cut to the waste side of your pencil line then the cut will be as measured.
     
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  5. big-all

    big-all

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    i cut half the pencil line out ;)
     
  6. foxhole

    foxhole

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    That would leave you very minutely short. :eek:
     
  7. BARCUD

    BARCUD

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    Hi guys and thanks.
    Lots of good advice as usual.
     
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  9. BARCUD

    BARCUD

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    Hi again guys. Can I just return to this question.
    I've been using 8"x1" with this open fronted bathroom cabinet I'm putting together. I'm putting a couple together so thought I would use the circular saw to make cuts. My cuts are still a little wobbly and so edges that butt against each other aren't exactly straight. Would you guys use a sander, a plane, sandpaper, or what to get the edges straight for nice tight butts?
     
  10. big-all

    big-all

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    you draw a pencil line on the the exact mark so the center off the pencil line is central to the mark on the tape
    of course if you mark "off center" then you take that into account :D ;)
     
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  11. big-all

    big-all

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    you need a chop/ miter saw to get real accuracy
    8" planks are a bit wide and may cup
    you would be better off with 4x1 or 5x1" or a combination off both and flip the grain and glue together
    if you already have the timber keep it out off damp or hot situations untill fixed together in a box shape
     
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  12. foxhole

    foxhole

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    Pencil line is thickness of mark usually, so cut thru it leaves it short. Exception is when using a marking gauge where line is much thinner than pencil.
     
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  13. gregers

    gregers

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    if yoy have a guide on your saw then use it.but you do need to be secure and confident in what your doing.if no guide then work out the size of cut you need to do,turn the machine over(making sure its not plugged in ;) )measure from the blade to the edge of the base plate,then transfer this measurement onto your work,then clamp a straight edge to the line you have marked.then cut the timber,this way you shoud be pretty much spot on every time.
    hopefully ive explained that well enough ;)

    also bear in mind the type of pencil you use.a hb will start off fine but within a short time the run will get thicker.i personally only use 2h pencils,was taught this yonks ago.the point lasts longer and gives you a crisp line of sight.
     
  14. BARCUD

    BARCUD

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    Thanks again, I'm cutting much straighter and accurate lengths now. The clamped straight edge worked perfectly even when I cut an inch from a 2ft wide piece of ply.
    Interested in glueing smaller widths together to make one piece. I assume long clamps would be needed? And what type of glue would be used?
     
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