Multiple Joints

And you’ve made a base?
yes, I don't know where it is though, I posted it somewhere, I should put it in here for completeness - wish the the thread had a different title too
 
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That's a cracking job. Well done. I'm more joiner than cabinetmaker and I admire people who get great finishes on their creations
 
I've cut them all out - went well I think, quite close with the angles
I am going to do an inlay in the centre cause all them thin bits is bound to look messy
hoping to do an inlay of beech like a big sun, but will see how the first bit goes
View attachment 390386

decided to glue them up 3 at a time, so made a jig to get them very tight, one biscuit in each join - you can see the pencil mark
View attachment 390387
I like that a lot.
 
that lovely table (even if i say so myself) bit of a disaster
clearly well loved by who i gave it too, so well loved it sat in front of the fire all winter
she would love it repaired

splitTable02.jpg


splitTable01.jpg



what the *******s do i do with this ?

apparently, so I learn now iroko (thats the wood) has a habit of splitting
and the plan I cut it from was full of shakes (hence all the triangles I cut out to avoid the shakes)

anyway, enough whinging, anyone got any bright ideas ????
 
mmmmm

first thought oooooofffffuuuuurrrkkk
then my thoughts you have choices
now all the stresses and shrinkage has happened and cracked then live with the hopefully small repair

back it with sheet material say 12mm thick to try and reduce the expansion but fairly hit and miss

the grain shrinks along the grain by virtually zero but across the grain if not stored and built in a similar moisture level to room used in as in centrally heated room about 5 to 10% it will shrink

i suspect what has happened [but you know this sorry] the thin edge off the wedge has shrunk by say 5% so 0 to 0.5mm per inch unfortunately as the outer edge is much bigger and all end grain it contracts much more

in other words my thoughts are it will be more stable in a cold damp environment similar to the moisture and heat levels off the workshop when built



do not panic do nothing in the short term other than to remove to a room in the house where heat is far less and moisture is far greater and see what changes over probably the whole summer but may be far far longer

and well done for sharing even though its fairly heartbreaking as it helps others to share warts and all and find a solution

and for what its worth i am in compleate awe [in a fully respecting way ]off the standard and finish you have managed so feel your pain
 
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that lovely table (even if i say so myself) bit of a disaster
clearly well loved by who i gave it too, so well loved it sat in front of the fire all winter
she would love it repaired

View attachment 412522

View attachment 412523


what the *******s do i do with this ?

apparently, so I learn now iroko (thats the wood) has a habit of splitting
and the plan I cut it from was full of shakes (hence all the triangles I cut out to avoid the shakes)

anyway, enough whinging, anyone got any bright ideas ????
What a shame :(

Table cloth? :oops:
 
That's heartbreaking!
Unfortunately it happens, especially with some hardwood like iroko.
If the table is staying in that room, I would find a piece of same wood (hopefully you kept the leftovers), choose a similar grain direction and cut a wedge.
Then you're skilled to shape that crack, glue it in there, fill, sand and re-oil.
Not easiest job but you're very good and precise with your hands, so the difficult part will be finding a piece of same wood.
 
another thought

once it has settled down what about clear resin to highlight the character and iff it further moves or opens up else where its just further history and interest
you could make a book or story board with pictures off its history
 
another thought

once it has settled down what about clear resin to highlight the character and iff it further moves or opens up else where its just further history and interest
you could make a book or story board with pictures off its history
this is what my wife is suggesting, an 'Honest Repair" however I'm more thinking on the lines of @johnny2007 - i still have some offcuts of the original timber, a bit daunting though, cut a wedge out then make a wedge the exact same shape, may not be that diffiult, just got to get the angle right

also thinking about hollowing out a massive section of the back and glueing in some plywood, that should make it more stable, plywood won't move much and there wll be less Iroko to move and split further (surely it can't shrink any further)
 
my suggestion is do nothing for at least 3 months preferably even longer
part off the problem i can see is you fill in with a wedge make a fantastic job and because you have filled in the shrinkage gap if it decides to expand a bit it will now be in the central section where the fantastic veneer inlay is and may crack/split there
 

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