Glow worm 30 cxi problem with hot water & now heating..

[roisin1972]

Hi,

I have a glow worm 30cxi boiler and have a problem that hopefully someone can help with.

The problem was that the heating was working fine but the hot water would work for a few mins then go cold if you turned the tap off waited 5 mins then you would get a little more hot water.

I checked with the manual and it said to check the 3 way diverter switch to take it out and see if the spindle moves in and out. I did check this and there was no movement at all. I returned the valve to the system and now the water seems to be better stays hotter for longer but not working how it should butttttt now I have no heating. could all this be due to the diverter switch its just I dont want to pay the £109 + vat for the switch if it isnt that causing the problem.

I have noticed that when you try to turn the heating on the boiler operates as normal but no heat available in radiators but when you turn the heat off the red light appears on boiler and flashes f14 for a few seconds,

Any help at all would be great

The boiler is approx 2 years old and complete rubbish the amount of repairs on it is beyond relief as listed below.

2 main pcb boards

heat exchanger seals

thermastat

and many other little switches,

 

[mickyg]

F14 usually is usually the plate heat exchanger blocked, which would explain your poor hot water. Sometimes the debris blocking the plate HE can back up into the diverter. I would remove and flush out your plate HE and see what comes out. If it is blocked then you have an issue with your system not your boiler. Who's diagnosed all these 'faulty' parts you've had?
also I wouldn't class a door seal a faulty part, it should be routinely changed during service intervals.

 

[ChrisR]

YOu can't take out the heat exchanger yourself, as you have to remove gas carrying parts to do it.
That wouldn't stop the CH working but would knacker the hw.
The DV spindle should obviously move, IF the signals ore on the connections to make it do so - so check those.

 

[roisin1972]

F14 usually is usually the plate heat exchanger blocked, which would explain your poor hot water. Sometimes the debris blocking the plate HE can back up into the diverter. I would remove and flush out your plate HE and see what comes out. If it is blocked then you have an issue with your system not your boiler. Who's diagnosed all these 'faulty' parts you've had?
also I wouldn't class a door seal a faulty part, it should be routinely changed during service intervals.

Hi micky,

Thanks for your reply regarding the boiler. This boiler first started getting its problems in the first 3 months. In the first year it was the installer replacing these parts free under warranty. Then the other problems were diagnosed and fitted by glow worm them selves. I would say in the last 2 years it has certainly stopped working at least 6 times. I am seriously considering outlaying for a new boiler as this seems to be a regular occurence. I will try what you have said. Many Thanks Roisin

 

[mickyg]

YOu can't take out the heat exchanger yourself, as you have to remove gas carrying parts to do it.
That wouldn't stop the CH working but would knacker the hw.
The DV spindle should obviously move, IF the signals ore on the connections to make it do so - so check those.

The "PLATE" heat exchanger...loosen 2 torx screws and it can come out the back from either side. it is not nessesary to remove gas carrying parts. Comes out the LHS easier, from the RHS you might have to disconnect the condense pipe. Like I said the blockage if bad can get into the diverter part of the hydroblock, and therefore cause heating problems aswell. F14 is classic plate he fault.

 

[mickyg]

Hi micky,

Thanks for your reply regarding the boiler. This boiler first started getting its problems in the first 3 months. In the first year it was the installer replacing these parts free under warranty. Then the other problems were diagnosed and fitted by glow worm them selves. I would say in the last 2 years it has certainly stopped working at least 6 times. I am seriously considering outlaying for a new boiler as this seems to be a regular occurence. I will try what you have said. Many Thanks Roisin

Only reason I asked is that I see alot of these and not normally so bad. Never changed many PCBs or t/stats(i'm assuming you mean the NTC's). If I were you I would keep it, I would say you've been very unlucky to have so many faults. If you do find debris in your plate HE, check to see if its magnetic. If so you may benefit from fitting a magnaclean or similar product, you will find plenty of reference to them on here and fairly easy to fit.

 

[gavinda]

we ****loads of problems with these. they are very susceptible to blockages in the heat exchanger and also need to have combustion set up perfectly . i would recommend getting someone in to look at this asap.

 

[ChrisR]

it can come out the back from either side.

I stand corrected - I've never had that much room!

 

[roisin1972]

Hi,


Thanks for all your replys, I replaced the diverter switch and gave the heat exchanger a flush through all working again, Just wanted to say thanks to all the replys.

Many Thanks Roisin

 

[Agile]

it can come out the back from either side.

I stand corrected - I've never had that much room!

I thought it was you Chris who told me that it woukld come out at the side IF there was enough space.

Pity the MI dont ask for 150 mm on the left to enable it to come out though.

The manufacturers dont seem to live in the real world.

Tony