Recent content by Idrisdraig

Old concrete pad aprox 4" thick. Heavy clay below. Aprox 40m2. About a year ago, it was selaed with a Silka product (though I forget which) and then screeded with self leveling compound. It was then coated with damp tolerant epoxy primer, folllowed by two coats of high build epoxy garage foor...

JohnD - Tried just twisting it before, but the twist seems to have returned. Big-all - do you mean this: If the current twist = 1. And no twist = 0. Brace the door so twist = -0.5? If so, how long would you leave it like that?

Less than a year old. Cheap pine. Perimeter frame with T&G infills. Hirozontal internal bracing, but no diagonals. Only undercoated so far but in the process of getting glossed. Pretty sheltered, but subject to more sun than rain. Looking at the door from the outise (it opens outward) with...

I have a wooden (exterior) stable door, the top half of which is twisted. Any thoughts on how to straighten it?

Am using joint compound on taped joints. (Managed to get two coats on then had to leave it for a week due to other commitments.) With the second coat, having filled the joint, when I went along the joint with a knife, the compound pulled on itself, leaving a very rough finish. I suspect the mix...

Garden room - 2.8m x 3.2m Walls and ceiling lined with tapered edge plasterboard, sealed with PVA, and joints taped with scrim. The walls only have tapered edges meeting tapered edges. The ceiling has a couple of joins with square edges. I've had a look at loads of videos on how to finish the...

I don't recall saying I wanted anyone to "falsify documents".

As much as I hate to get this thread back on track ;-) ... ie about getting the wiring tested and certified, and what I can do in terms of cladding walls, flooring etc without causing problems. I've had a look at the building over the weekend. It's relatively small scale (something like a small...

I don't know the situation with regards to building control, nor who the existing electrics were installed by. I've not seen the building yet - im just going on my sisyer's description, and it's possible some of the wiring is already inaccessible (I guess the installer expected to finish it)...

My sister has taken on a propety that has some unfinished work in an outbuilding. The electrics are incomplete and we will be getting a spark to finish the installtion and issue a Part P certificate. In the meantime, most of the first fix has been completed. If we leave all the junction boxes...

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I'm installing a raised floor (aprox 5m^2) over a concrete slab. There's enough heat loss through the slab, to make it worth insulating between the joists. Some websites I've seen mention adding a breather membrane under the insulation. Some say it's not necessary if using someting like foil...

That seems to answer my question. Thanks.

Just to clarify, can anyone comfirm how many terminals there are for each gang on the Hager intermediates if the have a loop connection? By my rekoning there should be 5, but I can't find any meaningful data sheet or pictures of the back of the switch. Thanks.

Do any intermediate switches have built in terminals for the common wire, or do you always have to use a chocolate block?