Recent content by rdhanjal

they don't have the slot in them, the rads are old and the key pretty much just goes round it.

Hi folks I'm just going round bleeding the air from all my radiators. But on one of them, the nut/valve seems to be quite round. I'm gonna get a new key, but if that doesn't work, I'm stuck with a half full rad. Has anyone come accross this before and figured out a way to loosen it? I'm...

Thanks for the replies, I knew people were helpful on this site, but still shocked at how quick you all got back to me. Many thanks.

Hi folks I'm really stuck at the moment. I've just located the leak we had. It was under our bathroom floor. Looks like a screw was rubbing on a radiator pipe. It's right under the toilet, so i would have had to rip that out, as well as the ceramic floor tiles, plywood and floorboards...

A good idea to replace with a danfoss, i guess it would be less hassle. I've tried lifting it off, but no luck, it just doesn't wanna come off. I've tried wriggling it slightly, but it doesn't seem to give.

Thanks again with the help earlier, this forum is excellent. Slight problem since yesterday though is I've noticed that the boiler kept on coming on every now and then throughout the night, even though the Danfoss 102e7 programmer...

it worked!!! thanks a lot for your help, luckily the stat seems fine... ...shame about the rest of my inefficient boiler system :) cheers

Hi all I would really appreciate any help with a problem i'm having changing my thermostat. The old thermostat is a Towerstat RS http://www.tfc-group.co.uk/assets/graphics/static/RS%20RCS%20RFS%20User%20instructions.pdf, and I've been trying to change it to a Honeywell DT90e. But so far...

I've built a stud wall with 2" x 4" with an 8' wide opening. The plan is to put up 4 x 2' glazed french doors from wickes. The doors are heavy but wickes suggest using a track to take some of the weight. The trouble with that is the doors will open in a "V" shape on each side. This will...

Hi I've put up some plasterboard which was fine, but now i've come to tape the joints, when i apply the gyproc easy fill the tape is bubbling up. I filled the gap between the sheets, then ran the tape over it, and then skimmed over both the tapered edge joints. any help would be greatly...

I'm about to put up some tapered edge plaster board and have got some tape for the joints. The trouble is i'm not sure how to stick it to the joints as it is not adhesive. anybody know the right way to do this?? thanks

cheers guys you've made some good points which i hadn't thought of like the timber acclimatisation and skirting, but i reckon i'll just use adhesive to fix those on as it took forever the last time i did it with plugs & screws. sorry to be a bit dense, but are the jambs the sides of the...

I forgot to mention... what screws should i be using to fix to a concrete floor? would i use the same screws to fix it to the ceiling/joists? thanks

Hello I'm going to be putting up a stud wall with a big enough for 2 pairs of 600mm french door from wickes. the width of the whole wall will be 3.6m and the opening will be 2.4m this leaves just 0.6m of wall on each side. after doing a bit of searching, i think i'll be going for 2x4...

cheers for the replies i was gonna get the wall skimmed but there is no budget for that after i got the quote for the carpets... :o i found something on b&q site "Blue Hawk Plasterboard Jointing Tool" that seems like the tool for the job...