yes you would have to feed a new cable to the proposed outside light
a light requires live and neutral to work,however the switch only has lives passing through it. as you can hopefully see you would need to supply the new light with a neutral so that when the switch is toggled the lamp will...
have you got a little "jumper cable" linking both commons together?
if the light works when you connect it to s1 it tells me you do not have "live" on s2
:?
sorry just seen this, IT IS NOT LEGAL to pull the fuse
I was merely stating that by doing so would "kill" power to the meter as the poster asked.
and yes i do have a supply of seals
:lol:
unfortunately for you part P is now inforce and this job IS notifiable to your local council and as such you'll need a certified electrician(under 1 of the part p scams...sorry schemes to do the work for you)
or else involve the local council (££'s)
to answer your question yes you can...
which model is entirely down to you
most modern ones come with carbon and foam filters so can be used without ducting through walls however the ducting method is definately better.
how are you going to get power to it?
:?
ive sussed it now i had'nt looked at the MK3 series on randall website only the 3022 link
many thanks to all who helped steer me to the answers i needed
:lol:
if it were just that chris i could sort it easy but i dont understand the plumbing terms described in the 3022 wiring guide at all to be able to know what is ch on/off etc
i have to deduce live/neutral (easy).... heating on/ heating off...
hot water on/hot water off (far from easy)
hence using all 6 terminals of new controller
:oops: :cry: :cry:
the new controller has live/ neutral and 4 other connection terminals (total of 6)
wheras w plan calls for live /neutral and 5 other (total 7)
bugger :evil:
ive forgotten to mention the new controller is a randall danfoss FP715
i was hoping that with it being from the same manufacturer i could just unplug and replug new one ( :oops: :oops: )
clearly not that easy!!
:cry: