Back to wall toilet fitting

wellerman · 18 Feb 2010

I'm after some clarification on the replacing of a WC with a back to wall close coupled unit.

The new WC is flush all the way to the floor so you cannot access the soil pipe. How do you ensure that the connector between the soil pipe/toilet is fully engaged when fitting?

Also I can't see how an isolating valve can be fitted in the cistern feed as you would need to remove the toilet away from the wall to turn off the supply. Then you will seperate the waste pipe from the toilet etc etc

How are you supposed to fit these things??!!

dextrous · 19 Feb 2010

If the waste pipe is fixed in exactly the correct place then the pan will slide into position and create a seal. The connector may go on the pan first or onto the soil pipe. Diagrams giving precise details are sometimes provided.

With regard to isolator valve, this depends on the unit. There will usually be a place to put it.

wellerman · 19 Feb 2010

Can't see an obvious place for the valve - plenty of space for a very long flexible hose, but you'd still need to remove the toilet to see it once it has been fitted. There is no facility for it to be run outside the WC and then disappear through the ceramic.

No instructions with it - Might be a silly question but how do you know if it's in exactly the right place if you can't see anything when its against the wall?

tamz · 19 Feb 2010

Ah, such are the joys of designer/imported sanitary ware

You will need one of these

http://www.screwfix.com/search.do?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=flexible+pan+connector
MacAlpine ones are better

and one of these

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/32424/Plumbing/Flexible-Hoses/WRAS-Hose-15mm-Valve-x-F-x-300mm-x-10mm

These will allow you to fit the WC out from the wall enough for access and connect up the to water and waste then test. After testing push back to wall. Don't bother with any fittings, brackets or instructions that come with the WC. This is the easy way to do it. Fit an isolating valve even though you can never get to it.

BTW Hope your walls and floor are square

LUNAT · 19 Feb 2010

HI

i have done these before .absulutely nightmare.use flexible pan connector and flexible water pipe.and push the bloody w.c back to the wall and you cannot screw this particular type.
or even better bin it.
stupid design.

wellerman · 20 Feb 2010

tamz said:
Ah, such are the joys of designer/imported sanitary ware

You will need one of these

http://www.screwfix.com/search.do?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=flexible+pan+connector
MacAlpine ones are better

and one of these

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/32424/Plumbing/Flexible-Hoses/WRAS-Hose-15mm-Valve-x-F-x-300mm-x-10mm

These will allow you to fit the WC out from the wall enough for access and connect up the to water and waste then test. After testing push back to wall. Don't bother with any fittings, brackets or instructions that come with the WC. This is the easy way to do it. Fit an isolating valve even though you can never get to it.

BTW Hope your walls and floor are square

That's great Tamz, thanks for that.

Gotta tile the floor and walls so plently of opportunity to get everything straight.

Lunat - bin it not an option (but made me laugh!)

Cheers all

wellerman · 20 Feb 2010

Another point - the soil pipe is cast iron. Once the end is tidied up will the flexible pan connector fit straight in or is there another adapter required to fit?

leakydave · 20 Feb 2010

A customer of mine bought a nice loo like this. There was nowhere to connect the cold water externally to the cistern. There was, however, a 'cut out' section in the ceramic at the top edge of the cistern against the wall.

I had to cut a 10mm copper pipe into the wall and fit a wall plate elbow where the cut out section of the cistern was, so you could see no visible pipe to the cistern. Looked good but took a lot longer than I expected! Is yours similar?

tamz · 20 Feb 2010

Cast will most certainly be 3 1/2".

Cut the collar off to leave a plain piece of pipe and use a 3 1/2" version of the pan connector. If screwfix don't do it you will get one from any plumbers merchants.

wellerman · 20 Feb 2010

No cut-out, Leakydave.

Tamz - Does seem nearer 5" diameter soil pipe that is protruding from the wall, so assume a 4" flexible connector such as this will fit inside it...

http://www.h-i-e.co.uk/acatalog/McAlpine_WC-F23R.html#ag55

tamz · 20 Feb 2010

Could be 4". If you can look at a collar it will have the size on it usually facing the front.

flexible connector such as this will fit inside it

That's the one

PlanetThanet · 21 Feb 2010

Hi

I have a feeling what you propose won't work. I would think the cast will be too far into the room. I don't know where the outlet is on that particular model is, but the one I did was only just enough to get it to fit with a flexi into plastic soil through/along under the floor.
I don't think they do those flexis to 3.5" pipe do they?
Any chance of a photo?

Thanet

tamz · 21 Feb 2010

3 1/2" flexi

http://www.h-i-e.co.uk/acatalog/McAlpine_WC-F23S.html

They can also be cut to make a bit tighter.

wellerman · 21 Feb 2010

cast soil pipe sticks out 3" (75mm) and the toilet outlet is set 220mm deep from outside edge of toilet.

This fitting extends from 150mm-340mm so with 220mm hidden by the toilet it will leave 120mm (5") extension for me to be able to pull the toilet away from the wall without disconnecting it.

I reckon a 5" gap is ample to be able to spot a leak?

Not running it under/into the floor - its straight onto pipe out of wall

tamz · 21 Feb 2010

I reckon a 5" gap is ample to be able to spot a leak?

More than enough space

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Back to wall toilet fitting

dextrous

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