Downstairs loo/cloakroom make over

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lol the brackets on the wall make it look out of line but they can be adjusted slightly for when I secure the board to frame and brackets. The frame is lined up.
I just thought the invisible connection on these toilets make it difficult to get under with a spanner/wrench?
 
Thanks guys. I think I'll have to order the toilet I mentioned if I have to fit a bracket to the frame then fit the 12mm plasterboard. I am concerned I won't have access to the main isolation valve (the water input) as it will all be boxed in so I guess I will have to double check the plumbing thoroughly for leaks. There are 3 isolation valves. The other two are just on the outside on the left of the cisten and inside the cistern there is a plastic cap to turn on or off. That can be reached by the flush plate :)
 
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make sure any isolation valves are located towards the top of the framework and make the 'lid' of the box removable for easy access.
 
lol great I was going to seal the lid as it to would be 12mm plasterboard as per the youtube video on the Geberit frame installation.
I will have to improvise on making a lid. Baring in mind the flush plate will have to go on top. Any ideas of what I could use?

Does anybody know of a cheap tool to cut the circles for the pipes etc the sizes are 40, 80 and 120mm diameter. I could cut the circles with a plasterboard saw but would be cleaner with a drill bit attachment. I have seen some online for less than a tenner. Any thoughts?
 
cheers Berty. Not sure what to do yet ref lid.
Might seal it all as if all connected correctly then shouldn't get leaks. After all the wall hung toilets I see in restaurants etc are all sealed into the walls.

I am in no rush as you can see by my OP. lol

Lucky I have the bathroom upstairs. I have sent off for the cutters seems reasonable but slightly oversized but no big deal.

I just have to send off for this Duravit Darling toilet.
I intend to drill pilot holes into sides of plasterboard into metal wall brackets then use the plasterboard screws. Hopefully this will secure the bottom section onto the frame where all the holes I need to cut. Then cut the top section above it and fill the joint. Decide on what lid I am going to put on along the way :) In the meantime my Brush chromed Kappa flush plate should be arriving today :)
 
Not sure if I misunderstood you but you MUST leave access to your isolation valves. Do not seal it completely.
The wall hung toilets you see in restaurants always have access to behind the wall somehow.
 
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Ok very slow progress but I guess I am in no rush lol

Bottom 12mm plasterboard cut to fit and secured. Very expensive wall hung toilet fitted. And I have sat on it! lol No problems.
Ok the next stage is fitting the top half but I can't decide whether to mount the flush plate on the top or front above the toilet. Maybe somebody can help here as I am so indecisive. Its a Kappa flushplate quite large which allows you access to the isolation valve inside the cistern if you need to isolate the water into the cistern that is. The flushplate can fit either position as there is sufficient gap above toilet lid. If anybody has photos or link to images to help me decide? I am going to tile half way up in my downstairs loo. So the front of the boxed section will also be tiled and I will choose a top that you can remove incase I have to isolate the main water valve. The floor also will be tiled. Look forward to any comments :)
 
Smileysmile said:
I can't decide whether to mount the flush plate on the top or front above the toilet. Maybe somebody can help here as I am so indecisive. Its a Kappa flushplate quite large which allows you access to the isolation valve inside the cistern if you need to isolate the water into the cistern that is. The flushplate can fit either position as there is sufficient gap above toilet lid.
Click to expand...

I am just about to start a similar thing to you. I too have bought a big flush plate. I intend to put mine on the front to show it off ;) The lid on top of the cistern can then be used as a shelf. I might one day put a cabinet on the wall above the WC.
 
I have to put mine on the top as when the toilet lid is up it is to close to the lip therefore would half cover the flush plate.

I have ripped the sink out put isolation valves on cold and hot pipe. Basically I'm ready to tile. I have an idea what I would like so I have a photo here I found online pretty much what I would want. Maybe a different shade for floor tiles. Halfway with the tiling is also what I want :)
I would say I am still in two minds what to do with the top where I am fitting flush plate. Like in this photo it is sealed with tiling. Or do I fit a lid laminated mdf in case I need access? Surely if the plumbing is all fitted correctly I won't need access?


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I am fitting a lid. A couple of days ago a plumber said to me that he is often having to rip tiles off to repair and replace concealed cisterns.

Regarding that photo, I would have floor tiles the same colour as the lower wall tiles. I would also change the upper level of tiles to be the same colour as the lower tiles. That would make the room look bigger.
 
NEVER block access to your cistern and isolation valves.
It will come back to haunt you.
 
Ok advice taken on board :)

Can anybody point me in right direction with images/photos of like the one I posted to give me ideas? Preferably with a laminated mdf top that lifts off. I think I will go for a glossy one maybe a beige/chocolate surface.

One thing with the floor tiles I am having is that the joint will meet the 18mm thick click 'n' lock wood hall flooring. I have never seen 18mm thick floor tiles? How would I combat this?
 
D

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