mice droppings in kitchen cupboard

If you have one mouse then you’ll have several, they don’t roam alone! Keep baiting until you don’t get any activity for a week, then you’ll be clear - for now! Remember they came from somewhere, how did that little fellow get in? if one got in under your floorboards, others will follow because they pick up the scent of where others have been.

importantly, you need to ensure that they can’t get into the kitchen (see my earlier post) if they can’t find food, they won’t stay around, food is their aim, that’s why mice, rats etc almost always appear in the kitchen unless you don’t hoover your living room and they smell out all the Vickie crumbs etc.
 
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I've got the traps and baits sorted I think.
What poison should I use along the walls?
 
If you have one mouse then you’ll have several, they don’t roam alone! Keep baiting until you don’t get any activity for a week, then you’ll be clear - for now! Remember they came from somewhere, how did that little fellow get in? if one got in under your floorboards, others will follow because they pick up the scent of where others have been.

importantly, you need to ensure that they can’t get into the kitchen (see my earlier post) if they can’t find food, they won’t stay around, food is their aim, that’s why mice, rats etc almost always appear in the kitchen unless you don’t hoover your living room and they smell out all the Vickie crumbs etc.
 
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There is no food in sight. We have cleared it all out.
With the trap positioning, I read somewhere that mouse travel along the skirting boards and on this basis, I have positioned the snap end of the trap towards and close to the skirting board. Is that sensible?

Does it still make sense to fill the holes after the infestation has stopped and I have 5 days of no-mouse activity? I've also read that wire wool and caulk are the advisable materials for the filling?

I am keen to supplement the traps with poison and would welcome your recommendations please.
 
Take off all the kitchen cupboard plinths and clean underneath the kitchen units.

Wash under the units with a Flash type floor cleaner. Doing this daily and keeping the kitchen spotlessly clean, with traps and poison will leave you with a mouse free home in no time.

(Place poison along the back wall under the units.)

Andy
 
At risk of developing rat complex here! I am wondering how I would ever know that rats are also under other parts of the kitchen units or loft for that matter i.e. areas that I just wouldn't inspect. Is it advisable to leave some of these poison blocks (as recommended by @HERTS P&D) in areas such as these and then check every month or so to see that the blocks are still there i.e. no rat issues

Perhaps I should also leave some under the units in question after we have 5 days of no-rats and I have sealed the holes too?
 
I've just placed a click and collect order for 3 tubs of Pest-Stop Rodenticide Wax Blocks. Will be collecting first thing in the morning.
Thanks again everyone.
 
Block all access, keep replacing traps after they have been set off or caught a mouse, more poison along the edges of the wall.

Please note: Be very careful if you have young children or pets running around.

Do not put traps or poison outside, wildlife needs a chance to survive.

Andy

Good point Andy, which leads me on to say, if you catch mice using poison dispose of them in your general rubbish bin. Do NOT throw them over the hedge into a neighbours garden/field etc as they may be picked up by birds or other animals. This in turn will possibly kill those animals.
Anything caught in a trap, (without using poison bait, i.e. mechanical device only), can be disposed of in the open and will be welcomed by some carrion eaters such as crows and magpies.
 
At risk of developing rat complex here! I am wondering how I would ever know that rats are also under other parts of the kitchen units or loft for that matter i.e. areas that I just wouldn't inspect. Is it advisable to leave some of these poison blocks (as recommended by @HERTS P&D) in areas such as these and then check every month or so to see that the blocks are still there i.e. no rat issues

Perhaps I should also leave some under the units in question after we have 5 days of no-rats and I have sealed the holes too?

Rats are everywhere so crop up from time to time. If I see one in daylight several times I phone the council up and they come along and leave trays of pellets. Enough to kill a nest. No fun really as we have a dog so they need to be careful where they put them. Owning a dog has it's bad points - they die eventually and I must admit although one died at a usual age I can't help wondering if rat pellets were the cause from some of the unusual symptoms. Maybe from some one else's garden and carried around by rats. Mice would probably eat them as well.
 
Update: 3 days and 3 mouse.
All very small in size. I will continue until there is a reprieve of 5 days and then block the holes.
 
UPDATE: after 3 mouse in 3 days, there has been no mouse since. It’s been around 10 days with no mouse activity: nothing in the traps and none of the wax blocks appear touched.

Is it safe to conclude my efforts?

Secondly, how should I block out the suspected entry holes in the wall please? These relate to cable and pipe entry.

Thanks again.
 
Pack around the pipes/cables with wire wool, push down into the hole to about 10mm below the surface then seal it in with a big gunk of silicone sealant. Smooth level with the surface.
 
We came home from holiday to find we'd had mice in. I set ordinary snap traps under the kick boards and caught 5 within a couple of days. I left baited traps under there for a while and checked them occasionally. No problems since. Not a nice thing to do, kill a little mouse, but they are dirty little creatures peeing and pooing everywhere. I prefer an instant death for them that I can be sure of, rather than a slow painful poisoning one.
 
Is steel wool from toolstation, the type used to clean copper tube for plumbing suitable for this task?
 
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