Looks like rodents have been at the fuel pipe under the car, have cut out a 2" section in the hope of being able to repair it somehow, it's a hard plastic pipe instead of rubber, so not sure how reliable it would be to bridge it with steel tube and clamps?
Clio fuel pipe repair?
- Thread starter Deluks
- Start date
I think I’d scrub the idea of a metal pipe insert, but rather use the appropriate nylon repair kits from eBay or whatever.
The nylon pipe isn’t really cooperative but if it’s warm, the serrated end coupling can be pushed on.
John
The nylon pipe isn’t really cooperative but if it’s warm, the serrated end coupling can be pushed on.
John
I'm not sure what these repair kits look like?
I've looked at double ended barbed connectors, but there's a 55mm gap to bridge, and they aren't long enough.
The pipe is 6mmID/8mmOD, I did wonder if a brass 8mm compression joint and a bit of microbore pipe would work.
I've found that stainless steel drinking straws are 6mmOD and do slide into the plastic pipe, but no barbs to form a seal.
I've looked at double ended barbed connectors, but there's a 55mm gap to bridge, and they aren't long enough.
The pipe is 6mmID/8mmOD, I did wonder if a brass 8mm compression joint and a bit of microbore pipe would work.
I've found that stainless steel drinking straws are 6mmOD and do slide into the plastic pipe, but no barbs to form a seal.
I guess you could use two of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/33391893...MIoc3p4NvWkAMVgpdQBh2iVTkoEAQYAyABEgJBZ_D_BwE
plus a length of pipe to join them?
Best ask the MOT testers what they think about other joinng methods!
John
plus a length of pipe to join them?
Best ask the MOT testers what they think about other joinng methods!
John
Maybe a piece of decent quality rubber fuel hose with the correct clips, 8mm inside diameter would be a good tight fit on it and although its plastic it should be ok. Not sure how the Mot man would be with it though.
I've got some 8mm hose, so that's probably the cheapest option, steel pipe as an insert to prevent crushing.
I had toyed with the idea of replacing the pipe for moderate cost, but there are several variations of this pipe for various models, online info isn't great, the reg is too old to be recognised.
The risk of buying the wrong pipe, plus the possibility of the connectors being seized/stuck after 25 years, clips breaking off, and the fuel tank needing to be dropped to access the pipe end.... a repair is a quicker fix.
If it fails the MOT they can stick a new pipe on and deal with the above potential issues.
No problem at all. The hard plastic tube is probably polyamide (nylon). Should be good for up to about 100 PSI of fuel pressure. Is it petrol or diesel? A couple of years ago, my son bought a non-runner on eBay (fuel leak). It turned out some idiot had jacked it up and trapped one of those hard plastic fuel lines. We cut out the damaged section and stuck one of these in to join the cut ends:
Straight Connector Nipple
Zinc Plated Steel straight connector nipple, for 2 polyamide tubes
cohline.co.uk
Not cheap, but they're OEM quality fittings.
No hose clips needed. HOWEVER... there's a knack to doing it. You need to heat the polyamide tube (more here if you need it):
with a hot air gun to JUST below melting point, and then push those connectors in quickly and squarely. Not enough heat and the connector won't go in, it will just kink the tube. Too much heat, and the tube melts! Needs to be about 110 degrees C, so dipping the tube in boiling water won't be enough.
Once in, the tube cools and shrinks around the barbs. It will NOT come off! ...EVER!
Also, if you want to get the joiner out of the tube, don't run a Stanley knife down the tube lengthwise, as the tiniest of scratches on the edges of the steel barbs will cause a leak. You're best warming the tube again and "pinching" the plastic off sideways with blacksmith's pincers or side cutters.
