Replacing back garden light - would you choose light with PIR sensor?

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jker

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Hi,

Not sure if this is the best place to ask advice about this. But we're looking to get our old back garden floodlight replaced, and we're trying to decide whether to get one with a built-in PIR motion sensor or just a standard switch-operated light.


The sensor does sound like a good option, but does it get triggered by anything like animals or wind, and does it end up being annoying?


Also, as we are getting an electrician to replace it, are the PIR lights usually much more expensive for them to supply and fit compared to a standard one?
 
jker said:
whether to get one with a built-in PIR motion sensor or just a standard switch-operated light.
Click to expand...
Just a switch I'd go for then its on only when you want it, I think people used to think they scare off crooks but I think it just helps them not fall on their arsè....

jker said:
does it end up being annoying
Click to expand...

Yes.


jker said:
much more expensive for them to supply and fit compared to a standard one?
Click to expand...

A bit not much.
 
Originally some were British made apparently and had a decent arm length and good adjustment.
Then came along combined/closely coupled cheap units and the prices raced down.
Personally if using PIR switching I prefer seperate sensor an lighting - Why? because you usually need the light to light from above and not to dazzle anyone looking in that direction, not only for walking by but particularly for any drivers, so "high up" shining down;

For best detection then lower for full body target and therefore best chance of proper detection.

The closely coupled units can be a nightmare.

PIR detection is not best suited for outside because it is difficult/impossible to eliminate all false trips.
You would never connect this to an alarm system but if it`s just for lighting the usually not much harm if it lights up now and again for no apparent reason.

If you did want Infra Red Detection outside you`d use an active infra red detector sets in parallel to avoid false alarms and to some extent blinding. Far more difficult to set up and phenominally expensive!

So PIR is OK if you use units that allow very different areas of view for detection and illumination so seperate detector and lighting is the best option but much more expensive - to buy the detector only on its own is often more expensive than to buy a combined unit anyway.

Manual switching without a PIR has its merits!

Whichever method you use it is usually best to have both detector and lighting high up enough to be out of harms way from deliberate tampering as well as accidental.
 
NEVER use a "light" with a "built-in" PIR sensor.
Always use a separate PIR Sensor to activate the "Light".

Reason.
PIR Sensors fail
and
Lights fail.

When (not IF) one of an integrated unit fails, you will need to replace BOTH.

In THE LONG RUN, it is cheaper to utilizes separate devices.
 
Pir lighting needs proper setup

I think a lot of people just slap them up the complain they're not working properly
 
Much depends on hot flues, and other lights in the area. I had a PIR lamp at back door for years, then the next door neighbour fitted a massive one, likely 300 watt, so a cat or something would trigger one lamp, the heat from the lamp would trigger the other lamp, which would turn off the first lamp, then the second lamp would switch off, and the first one would be triggered again, and so on, so both lamps would then flash on/off alternatively for the rest of the night.

I also had one which the central heating would trigger.

This house, windy weather the trees would trigger the light, but it would also switch off when only halfway up the steps.

Mothers house, light on garage, back of house, some distance from the road, but still had to put insulation tape over part of the PIR as cars would trigger it.

So now, in the google home app, on getting home, or before if wife driving, I turn on all outside lights (6 of them) and once in house turn them all off with a voice command.
 
All valid points.

When the Tungsten Halogen tubes were the normal on some I would try and make the ON time 3mins minimum to assist longevity of the lamps, similarly the old bog standard filament lamps did not enjoy the stress.

much either, in fact fluorescents did not appreciate lots of switching on and off and one way to kill them was rapid switch on/off in bathroom fittings, oh joy!

Decent LEDs do not seem to suffer much with low interval switch on and off it seems.

mikehammer69 said:
I think a lot of people just slap them up the complain they're not working properly
Click to expand...

Yes indeed!

All the above have valid points I reckon.

As an aside its amazing how many folks fit fire detectors into corners too or do not remove transit bolts from washing M/Cs etc.
 
Yes the slow startups on discharge lighting and the short on-times affecting lamp life
Don't think much about that now

I still have a trusty 15w incandescent bulb on an older pir , newer bulbs wouldn't work on it
 
I use several Pir solar powered floods around the garden , by side gates. Mains flood if I need it over workshop entrance .
Who is it going to annoy in your back garden? We have curtains .
 
pete01 said:
ust a switch I'd go for then its on only when you want it, I think people used to think they scare off crooks but I think it just helps them not fall on their arsè....
Click to expand...

I guess it depends on where you live. My previous home backed on to park (west London). The only time that someone tried to break in they jumped over a neighbour's fence and pushed the PIR up so that he wouldn't trigger it.
 
Apropos brands- I have had some LEDs that failed after a few months. I now purchase the V-Tac Led flood lights based on advice offered here. They have Samsung chips and a year warranty. Thus far they have proven to be reliable.
 

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