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I don't know about the soot removal but the paint is probably an emulsion. Nitromors used to use MC (methyl chloride) as the active ingredient. MC has now become a restricted product because of cancer concerns. MC is not very good at softening waterbased paints. In reality, the newer Nitromors...

Punch the plugs below the surface and use filler. Then sand the filler flat.

I don't know the answer to your question but it might be prudent to edit the google street map image in post #5 to remove your address.

As above. Use an angle grinder with a thin Inox blade. I am a weakling so I would make several cuts to reduce the weight. Unfortunately, a 115mm angle grinder will only cut to a depth of 24-30mm but as the blade wears down, so will the depth of cut. The horizontals look to be about 40mm...

??? Expanding foam becomes brittle in direct sunlight but, as far as I know, it is not compromised by UK temperature ranges. Years ago, when I built my garage, I was "gifted" a massive lump of mahogany door threshold. I didn't want to offend the person who gifted it to me even though I know...

Most expanding foams are closed cell. In the past I have used them to block both air flow and water ingress. I am not suggesting that they will hold back an olympic sized swimming pool of water, but using using them is not necessarily a bodge.

Water based primer will be idea but you need to wait a week or so for the putty to skin over (depending on the thickness of the putty). If you use an oil based primer too soon, you risk it softening the thin skin and dragging the putty. If you are planning to use waterbased gloss, that too...

A bit late now but the London based Leyland SDM chain of stores sells Floetrol. They also sell Owatrol oil (the version for oil based paints). https://leylandsdm.co.uk/amlocator/ AFAIK, Floetrol is primarily propylene glycol. I always add some Floetrol when working with waterbased paints on...

Floating wise, yeah, no issue given that you have supports at either end. Sagging- yup, it will sag over time. I used to work for a cabinet maker- long spans he would use steel box sections or L profiles to support the front edge (set back slightly).

If you don't know the name of the door manufacturer, it is going to be difficult to match the colour.... BTW, If it a fire check door, there should be a label on the top of the door which will hopefully help you identify the maker. I would guess that they were factory sprayed using waterbased...

Would a hop up be suitable? * image link: https://www.safetyplatforms.co.uk/product/long-hop-up-platform/ The following is 500mm tall. The platform is 600 wide and 300 deep. Rated at 150kg. £35. (BTW the one in the image is more expensive and wider)...

Hi all. When nylon quarter turn valve levers wear down, would it be possible to replace them with something more reliable, eg a metal twist or lever arm? if not, can anyone recommend a supplier of the blue lever in the photo? The photo is from the salt machine in my local pub, the lower...

You will find that walls in matt and units in eggshell or satin will look very, very slightly different. It is down to the way that the light refracts off each of the paints. You can buy matt paints suitable for the MDF but they will be difficult to keep clean. Years ago, I specialised in...

Fingers crossed.

Take your time measuring up. You don't want to find that the middle blind is so wide that when you open each of the blinds they clash/hit each other. A 50mm blind will require a bigger gap than, for example, a 25mm blind. The following kinda explains it but not very comphrensively...

Agreed, a 115 or 125mm grinder will be be easier to control. I have only ever used a 9" when cutting 40mm deep sandstone floor tiles. With the right set up, you should be able to use a smaller angle grinder within 0.5mm tolerances even over 1000mm (free hand). I have seen people on the...

Just to update. I decided to swerve the rad removal. The customer got a plumber in. I hadn't realised that when you take the Peglar TRV head off, there is another section which needs to be removed to access the basic pin. The plumber fitted a decorator's cap over the lower pin which stopped...

https://www.partshopdirect.co.uk/black-and-decker-sander-and-jigsaw-vacuum-adaptor-p368608/ That seems to be the part, but check before ordering it. Unfortunately, the site doesn't say what the diameter of the round part is, meaning that you may need a stepped adaptor as well. As mentioned...

I was going to recommend those but wont the OP need to use the setting tool given that the collars don't have spikes to prevent them spinning as you try make the body collapse?

You can drill into two of the existing holes. Silicone might work if the orientation was different. By that, I mean that if the rack ran down the door rather than horizontally there would be less of a shear load.