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Houses have ventilation when the floor is suspended with a void underneath. The houses with blue engineering bricks will still have a plastic DPC the same as yours

Pretty hard to tell whats going on in those 2 blurry photos without any context... Single storey garage? Flat roof? Where are the photos taken? What are you actually intending to do - take out the entire wall or just put a new doorway in?

Maybe my eyes but looks to me like trusses are notched?

Are the existing purlins notched or is it actually the trusses that are notched to support the purlin?

Resin anchors or concrete bolts to fix into masonry/concrete. That lintel looks like a right bodge job - why is it supported on a piece of timber at one end?

01 Looks fine, if its been approved/designed by your SE and builder is happy with it then not much more to it? A more common solution for loft conversions is to run a beam between gable walls (above the ceiling joists) and hang the new floor joists from it - the existing ceiling joists and...

Go back to your structural engineer with the query from building control - if they have designed the padstones supporting the beams then they should also be specifying the detail they have assumed/require for the supporting masonry. For a 3m long beam supporting some floor, roof and external...

It depends on the size of the opening and the loading it supports, but I've heard of it being done that way. People often appoint a structural engineer first to produce a drawing from which to go out and get quotes. If its just a small opening then a competent builder should be able to deal with...

No the double row of bricks is just where someone has filled it in - the brick arch would have acted as a lintel to form the opening

Not clear where the beam that you're referring to is or what its supporting - can you post a picture?

The NHBC guidance on building near trees is specifically for building in clay soils which are susceptible to volume change due to changes in moisture content. Sand/gravel doesn’t swell or shrink like a clay, so no heave precautions are required if the soil isn’t cohesive.

Cost will always vary depending on type/size/length of pile and the type of rig they can get onto site, but I’d say £600 - £1000 per pile is a decent ballpark figure. Usually you’ll get a quote for the piling based on a specified pile depth, and somewhere on the quote (usually in small print)...

Yep £18,000 is way over the top for 8 piles - thats over £2000 per pile!

Just screw a bit of timber into the masonry to give you something to sit the edge of the ply on and fix - a bit of 2x2 or whatever other offcut you've got will do.

There’s 2 types of radon protection categories - basic or full. Basic protection is achieved by just a membrane, full protection requires a membrane + either a vented clear void below the floor or the radon sump/pipe within the ground.

The pipe and radon sump are there to provide passive ventilation, even when not connected to an extraction unit, so no you shouldn't cap it off. An extraction unit is installed if the vented pipe alone doesn't provide enough ventilation when tested after its installed.

Could be anywhere from £15 - £50k for the platform lift and installation alone, price depends on loads of different factors - size of cabin, load rating, speed rating, travel height, location. Then add on the cost of someone else carrying out the structural alterations like forming a new...

Internal steelwork in a heated building without condensation risk doesn’t require any corrosion protection - slap some paint on it if it makes you feel better. Sounds like the bigger issue is whether you have specified and paid for something that the builder has not provided?

Its called intumescent paint. Yes you can apply it after the beam is installed - if the beam was pre-painted then likely the paint would need touching up anyway as no doubt the paint would be damaged in some way during transportation, lifting, installing any bolts etc..

Normally you’d have a spreader plate bearing onto the existing masonry. Why are you unsure if you need engineering brick or not? Has an SE sized the spreader plate you need?