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Thanks guys. sounds like i need to invest in some good fine sandpaper.

I've just had a new set of spindles newels and stair rails fitted. The Base rail and hand rail is bare pine. The newels are described as primed ready to paint. What's the best way to get a nice smooth finish on the hand rails and the awkward parts between spindles? it feels too fiddly to get a...

Paint flaking off a door frame. it is b&q satin paint, Painted one day prior to this photo. The wood is old but was sanded prior to painting. Sanding was awkward due to the profile of the wood though. Now I think about it the plasterer did get very messy with his pva which has made some of the...

Something is telling me 25w. Simply based on what I remember when buying it. I recall it was vastly oversized for the pond. my question I suppose was is it possible that this 25w unit is running at 16w as per the label.

What lamp do I fit in this then? 25w or match the alleged input at 16w? I don't know what's in it at the moment. I just knower it needs a new one. is it possible to run a 25w lamp at 16w as per this label? or has someone screwed up this label?

Done! I didn't end up using any guide at the back but it looks bob on. The surface of the old floor actually wasn't bad and using that as a guide went quite well.

The manufacturer simply states it must be finished on all sides to prevent movement in the door structure. A low sheen would be acceptable, ideally something I can pick up at B&Q and won't cost a fortune.

Done this so far. Didn't take as long as I Thought to mix up and lay. 1.5 bags down.

900mm wide. width of the stairs. I'll attempt it without. as you say I'll have some visual with the brick courses.

I need something to finish these doors off. We want them left natural. Whats the best product to use thats low sheen and transparent but meets the requirement that it must be finished on all sides?

Thanks. The existing finished floor is in no way level in any direction (though the area next to the stairs here is probably the best, least cracked bit in the house). Which is why I wanted a straight edge along the back to work to. So I'd follow the finished floor at the front and at least the...

I have recently knocked down the wall that has enclosed the under stairs of my 1950s house since it was built. Having the walls boarded and a stud wall with doors in it. The area is approx 1.8mx0.9m. The main issue I need to overcome is that the floor under the stairs isn't finished. There is...

Hells bells its been a while. I decided to take out that wall. The joiner has fitted the newel posts and now we're waiting for the plasterer to come and refinish the whole stairwell and the new understairs opening. We will put doors on it and frame out an opening etc. Joiner has agreed to make...

Just been in my local branch of the range and couldn't help notice something. someone has been in and run a length of soil pipe from one end of the shop to the other along the roof. Consequently the fall is minimal maybe 1ft-18in across the shop (it's a big shop maybe size of a supermarket). The...

Why is it half above and half below the ffl? How will that be finished?

We have a upvc porch on the front of the house, with french doors so not great security but only 5 years old so better than average. Anyway as a second line there is a fairly old wood front door. At the moment there is only a knob with a thumb turn on the inside and key centre on the outside...

I may be cracking open at least one of them when I've got a new module for the leds.

I know all that. Just wondered if anyone knew what type this was.

Well hopefully you'll see the issue if I tell you one of the dimmers has two 13w LED fittings on it. I did specify trailing edge dimmer for these fittings as they are dimmable. but I never mentioned the rating. the lights buzz and the dimming is all over the place. I just wondered if these were...