Oak veneer door

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I need something to finish these doors off. We want them left natural. Whats the best product to use thats low sheen and transparent but meets the requirement that it must be finished on all sides?
 
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Steve, good evening.

A couple of things, what does the manufacturer recommend? [but do not take that as Gospel, they have done there job, you have purchased their product???]

The one product that will not colour the wood is i believe bee,s wax and paraffin, it tends to enhance the colour of the wood, but does not alter the colour of the wood, as your requirement it is transparent if anything it gives a luster to the wood?

The upside of using the above is that it is a natural product, being applied to a natural product.

Having just sanded [again] my hall floor I have chosen to apply a product that is a floor wax finish, the results are reasonable, I need to do more buffing and apply more proprietary wax finish. bottom line is that the wax, albeit not Bee,s wax and paraffin, has not altered the basic colour of the timber at all, in my case down to the shading occasioned by historical carpets being fitted here and there.

Lets see what the board think about this?

Ken.
 
The manufacturer simply states it must be finished on all sides to prevent movement in the door structure. A low sheen would be acceptable, ideally something I can pick up at B&Q and won't cost a fortune.
 
they usually say that veneered doors should not be oiled or waxed.

have you considered a satin varnish? Easy to keep clean.
 
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Hi,
I've just purchased some Osmo Polyx Oil to finish my oak veneered doors. The one thing I'm not sure about it how to prepare them for the oil? There's a few grubby finger marks from fitting that I need to clean off. Also, there's some residual dust from manufacture on them. I seem to recall reading somewhere that white spirit on lint free cloth should be used to prep for finishing. Is this correct?
 
Danish Oil works well - in terms of prep - sand any marks of with fine grade paper and then brush them down. You'll sand back the first coat anyway and you can wipe clean with a damp cloth at that point.
 
Alcohol, meths or white spirit can be used to wipe off greasy finger marks. Wipe down and run a hoover with a brush attachment over them.
 
"Product details
Door requires finishing using water based paint, stain or varnish. These doors are not suitable for treatment with any type of oil, wax or polish"
I wonder why? I mean, wax is pretty darn forgiving. Something to do with attacking the glue maybe? Yet other veneered objects are often waxed. Call me skeptical, but I get the feeling this has more to do with covering their arses 'just in case' rather than being based on any actual testing
 
probably the glue. They seem to say it about both veneered timber and veneered chipboard (FD) doors.
 
There's a lot on the net that says those warnings are like "this products may contain nuts". Its down to the chip board core soaking up the oil and dissolving the glue. Danish oil dries hard, so is not the same as a conventional oil.

I oiled mine and had no problems
 
There's a lot on the net that says those warnings are like "this products may contain nuts".
I suspected as much!

Its down to the chip board core soaking up the oil and dissolving the glue. Danish oil dries hard, so is not the same as a conventional oil. I oiled mine and had no problems
And wax is just wax, once the solvent has evaporated, so is surely harmless.
 
Wax may show up all the manufacturing defects resulting in using different wood. If you want a wax finish, I'd oil/prime first particularly as the finish on these doors are a bit hit and miss.
 

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