Concrete floor

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I have recently knocked down the wall that has enclosed the under stairs of my 1950s house since it was built. Having the walls boarded and a stud wall with doors in it. The area is approx 1.8mx0.9m.

The main issue I need to overcome is that the floor under the stairs isn't finished. There is a concrete finish, but the rest of the house has on top of that: a layer of bitumen, concrete screed (looks just like normal concrete from the edge) and magnesite, total depth about 40mm. So I have 40mm to make up under the stairs.

There's also a pit thats been left, roughly where the incoming electricity cables run. I'm not bothered about accessing that, clearly access hasnt been needed for 60 years. So I plan to fill that in with concrete, let dry, then lay a dpm over it all and lay concrete over the lot. Is this acceptable for a 40mm depth?

Should I mix quite a sloppy mix to get the surface nice? Never laid concrete indoors before. Are bags of all purpose ready mix ok for this? Total volume is under 0.08cube and the area is obviously going to be very little used, just long term storage, or the washing machine if I get my way, but in no place is the area high enough for standing up in.

Can I use a batten along the back to get a level line across? So along the edge of the finished concrete would be a length of wood, hidden under the plaster and skirting. This seems the easiest way to get it level.
20161102_124859.jpg
 
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Purpose bags will be OK. Wet will be easier.

Drag a straight edge or timber across the top , using the existing floor as a guide, and then trowel it smooth. I would not leave a timber in the floor.
 
Purpose bags will be OK. Wet will be easier.

Drag a straight edge or timber across the top , using the existing floor as a guide, and then trowel it smooth. I would not leave a timber in the floor.
Thanks. The existing finished floor is in no way level in any direction (though the area next to the stairs here is probably the best, least cracked bit in the house). Which is why I wanted a straight edge along the back to work to. So I'd follow the finished floor at the front and at least the back would be good. I don't fancy doing it freehand, even with a straight edge. Is there anything wrong with leaving a piece of wood in there? It'll be above the dpm.
 
I would not leave a timber in the floor because it will rot at that location.

If you really can't manage it, then nail the timber on the wall above the floor level and then notch another timber to the required depth of floor level. And drag this between the time on the wall and the floor edge.

But TBH, its what 450 wide? And you have a joint or something on the wall as visual guide to doing it free hand.
 
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900mm wide. width of the stairs.

I'll attempt it without. as you say I'll have some visual with the brick courses.
 
I like Woody's idea of nailing to the wall, takes the stress out of it of you've not done it before.

Another option that I used to screed the sand on our drive, is get some spare pipes eg conduit, level it to them, pick them out once the rest is level, then use a float or something to fill/smooth the damage.
 
Done this so far. Didn't take as long as I Thought to mix up and lay. 1.5 bags down. 20161105_092813.jpg
 
20161106_130013.jpg
Done! I didn't end up using any guide at the back but it looks bob on. The surface of the old floor actually wasn't bad and using that as a guide went quite well.
 

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