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I have a white cot which has suffered significant yellowing. The room it was in before didnt get any sun. It cost £300+ when new so we are using it again for our second baby. Anyway, its currently dismantled ready to paint. I want it to still have a smooth eggshell surface and the only way I can...

What? My fridge freezer is rated at 60w. But it doesnt use this continuously. It maybe uses that a quarter of the time. OOI I use about 6 units per day. All my lights are leds. I have no electric heat except the oven. We have the telly on a good few hours a day (theres 3 of us) but thats only...

Yes I know its not a cheap do. But I was thinking of maybe making the loft useable/accessible for storage for now with a fold down ladder, then doing a proper conversion with windows, walls etc later on. The stairs into the loft will rise centrally to land about where the hatch is now...

The span is 6500mm though, wouldnt these steels be prohibitively big and expensive?

I live in an awkwardly built 1950s semi. However the loft is huge. It has massive potential. Our adjoining neighbours have told us they had a quote for a loft conversion and it was more expensive than the 2 storey extension they had built instead. When I look at the structure of the loft I see...

If I have to rewire it ill show you a picture of its innards to satisfy you.

The missus decided on an El cheapo extractor fan for the kitchen which came with these pieces of crap fitted to it. 20w 12v g4 fittings. They look awful compared to the cool white leds in the ceiling. I didn't know 12v halogens were even still manufactured. The fittings look like they'd...

Also, with the floor being fresh concrete, should I have to prep it at all, or can i just tile straight onto it with my fast set?

When I did this, I continued the bond around the box, but my tiles were a natural stone pattern so the joints werent very visible. With your tiles you may be best doing as you say, stop the bond and divide both sides of the box into 2.

I've got a 6.5 x 2.7m kitchen diner to tile next week. Both doors are on the long sides but at opposing corners. The tiles are 290x590mm. I was going to do a straight brickwork pattern but I've seen good results with a third offset, rather than a half, so I may do this. I am tiling the kitchen...

I'm aware my house ground floor is suffering with sulphate attack (which expands the slab and can cause damage to external walls). However I have followed suit with my next door neighbours. They filled in the cracks in the living room and hall. I did the same last year. I've currently got 2 men...

A friend installed it, he left the codes as default and most (all?) of the settings as default too. I've also asked him today, he confirmed I enter engineer mode, disconnect, link out tamp and alarm, isolate power, reset panel.

And I can do all that without triggering a full alarm by entering the engineers code followed by prog prior to starting work? Then reset afterwards.

I have a texecom veritas r8. I need to remove the pir in the kitchen while the place is refurbished. Is it simply a case of entering the engineers code and getting on with it? Can I link the tamper and alarm pairs on the cable so i can reset the alarm to full service? Or do I need to program...

The water flows from the manhole away from this gulley. So that'd be going even further through the soil. And uphill. No, I'm fairly sure its the length of pipe between the soil stack and the chamber.

Well I never. There's red water in my hole. Well, a very faint bit of red amongst the black. I cant believe it. I'm going to have to dig out the rest bend. Thats a whole new world of pain. I'm tempted to dig out the whole patio and replace the lot. If a jobs worth doing . . . I also want to look...

That pipe is 32mm, to match existing bend buried in the wall. I will be changing it to 40mm when I do the kitchen. Very shortly. I'll adjust the pipework accordingly.

I've just chucked some red water down the sink and we'll see if it emerges in my hole. For perspective here's a photo of the area. There is no other drainage nearby. The far gulley and the soil stack join together prior to the IC.

The cock and the meter were in the same hole. But the cock was always completely underwater as it sits a good few inch lower. The pipework after the meter is a bodge. It is because the meter is at an angle and the only way to get onto the old lead pipe coming into the house was to go up across...

I don't fancy digging the concrete out around the stack. If it isn't damaged before it will be afterwards. However the stack is only about 1.2 metres from the IC so wouldn't be a big job to replace the whole run. I'm still of the theory that this water is in the ground. I've just been out 24h...