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I installed a kitchen worktop last year and underneath on the front edge it has blown where the sink is. I have had a partial refund from the company who supplied it, but I'm now looking to seal it to prevent it getting any worse and I'd be grateful for advice on what to use. I did use silicone...

Many thanks for the replies. Is there some symbol on the power supply that states if it's a regulated/constant voltage and not supplying a constant current?

I have a set of these LED strip lights which you can cut into lengths https://www.screwfix.com/p/bendable-5m-led-tape-light-10w-1200lm/959fx But only one power supply. It's rated at 12v 1a, so I was wondering can I use any power supply that is 12v and at least 1a, or is there a specific type...

Thanks for the reply. It is an issue about having to replace the whole unit and I've had good look on the internet and I can't find any kitchens which have this type.

Not sure this is the right board for this, but I'm looking for advice on kitchen down lights. We are having a large kitchen/ family room extension built (7.2m by 7.2m) and will be having downlights. I was planning on the standard size GU10 led equivalent, but our electrician has suggested these...

Thanks for the reply. I've not tried it on any other socket, but it's happened so infrequently I'm not sure whether it's worthwhile. I will do some of the tests referred in the thread.

We have just moved house and twice we’ve had a shock from a kettle. The kettle is cordless with a plastic base and chrome sides and the shock happened when you push the plastic switch down to turn the kettle on and then touch the chrome side. It feels like a powerful static shock, but I’ve not...

Just a quick question about which pump to buy. I was going to replace with a Grundfos but noticed that you get a Parker pump for £42 on the link below...

Thanks for the advice. Yes there is voltage over both of them. Come on you baggies!

Thanks for the reply. No it doesn't. Some water and steam comes out. I have thought of taking the pump head off just to see whether there is anything obviously wrong. Would that be a good idea?

It's a Grundfos central heating pump 15/60. It looks relatively new, although it is at least 8 years old, in that it's clean with no leaks or corrosion. The issue is that its not pumping. I've removed the bleed screw and I'm able to freely rotate it, so it's not jammed and I've used a voltmeter...

I’m installing a new resin shower tray on a suspended floor. The instructions state that the tray should be laid on 18mm marine ply. The new tray is around double the size of the old tray it’s replacing, and therefore, it will extend onto the bathroom flooring which is laid with slate tiles...

Thanks for the replies. I'll try the sealant. You tell them but it goes one ear and out the other! For some reason it has never happened on previous cars so I don't know whether its an issue with the S-Max design.

The rubber seal that runs along the bottom of the doors has been partially broken off by the kids treading on when they get out of the car. I think there may be a metal strip in the rubber as it is relatively rigid. Its fixed on by a number of plastic lugs which have been snapped off. Therefore...

Just to say that I've followed Madrab's instructions and it appears to have cured the leak. I think if it leaks again I will have to find someway to change the fitting to a proper toilet connector. Thanks for all the advice.

You right about the casting of the ceramic casting as I noticed that when I disconnected the toilet, the plastic pipe outlet was a slight oval shape, which obviously has been caused by the not perfectly circular pan outlet. This would account for the secondary leak I after I had partly rotated...

The top just has a screw lid allowing access to the pipe. As you say the fitting shown by Charnwood is neater, but would it be best to leave an access point just in case there is a blockage?