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But it isn't! The low pressure LED's flashing but water pressure is steady at one bar. No CH or hot water. Is there a pressure switch somewhere?

DHW LED flashing couple of times a second. Grant's docs suggest the ‘Store’ thermistor connection to PCB, or possible store thermistor. Any thoughts?

I want to check the pressure on a Grant Vortex Riello burner, but can't find any info on residual pressure; eg if I remove the test-point Allen screw, will it spit out 8 bar of kerosene all over the utility room, or does it only work up to that pressure when running? Thank you!

Can I hire an oil pressure gauge and gas analyser, to adjust after changing nozzle, or is this forbidden?

What are these like to change, please? Looking down on it, unscrewing it looks like it'll catch on the aav (which was silly-tight when replaced by an engineer). Also, if depressurised, will removal still create a 'gusher'? (This is a bungalow, so no additional 'weight on water.) The history to...

Runs for eight mins or so from cold, but can't feel any heat to heat exchanger, then overheat cuts in and boiler starts making rude noises until it cools. Pipes at top are hot. Pump? I've seen a non return valve mentioned, but where is it and how do you test, or is it in the pump? Heating works...

My loft is boarded down the centre, which corresponds to being above the long-ish hallway. Here it has, maybe, 50-75mm insulation under the board. Would laying a couple of rolls on top of the boarding help with heat loss? I need it boarded, so don't want to pull it up.

Don't ask why but I want to give a 'push fit' heater coolant connection on a thermostat housing a little bit of help on a Peugeot vehicle. I have silicone, Fernox Water Hawk jointing compound and silicone grease. Any thoughts on best choice? TIA!

I changed the bath taps for a mixer type and stuck the old bath taps on the basin, as they suited the size of the basin better. However the hot tap if turned up creates a terrible hammering from the pipes. Cold is fine and flows much much better. I wondered if there's some carp in the tap. Are...

These are weeping from the cap where the Allen screw is. I've tried a couple of wraps of plumber's tape but they still leak a bit. Can I use general purpose silicone on the threads or do I need a fancy Fernox/plumber's thread seal type compound? And/or any other ideas to stop the weep? Many...

I want to change the three automatic air vents on my Grant Vortex 26e oil burner, as all are leaking to some degree. I'm thinking of keeping it off for a couple of days so dead cool, reducing pressure and shutting off the blue isolating valve and cold inlet at back, then diving in. Any thoughts...

My 'inner' light switch turns on the 'outer' light and vice versa, so it's intuitively wrong. I guess it's a case of just swapping top and bottom load connections, but is it L1 and L2 or L1 or L3, or something else!? Thanks in advance!

I've some hall lights to fit, with live and neutral only. They don't indicate they're double insulated. Should I connect an eyelight on the existing earth (which is blanked off in the old plastic bayonet terminal block) and attach to the new metal bayonet's ceiling fitting screw? Or just blank...

Not long moved in and currently decorating. We have two smoke alarm bases in the hallway, now redundant as previous occupier installed battery only rf smoke alarms. These bases are currently live. Can I just maintain their connections and poke wires into ceiling (it's a bungalow, but this bit is...

Just moved in and the back door's skewwhiff and dragging on the laminate floor. I've never seen hinges like this before (four in all) and they're tight against the wall. Can they be adjusted without digging out plasterboard etc? TIA!

I want to add a double rad in the place of the existing single, but anticipating the valves will not line up, as the double will (probably) have its tails further from the wall. My pipes inconveniently go into the cavity through plasterboard and they have little wiggle room. Can you get valves...

I haven't moved in yet so have few further details but in principle can I swap a Danfoss programmer with a Drayton without wiring alterations if they both have a 'standard backplate'? Thanks in advance!

I'm staying in a holiday caravan at mo, one year old and it's very nice, but has no thermostast. So I can either turn the boiler off, leave it on all the time or put it on timer. Obvs I can tweak TRVs until blue in the face but it seems a bit wasteful. Thoughts please. Just curious.

I had to made some plumbing amends at a friend's place and I needed to remove the paint from the copper pipe before extending the pipework using Speedfit (same would apply for soldered connections, I guess). I scraped, then wire-wooled, even tried a sanding block and pan scrubber. But it took...

If heating a hot water tank, is it gas-cheaper to run a hotter boiler temp for less time? Just wondered as it seems to take 30+ mins at 60C or 20-25 mins at 70C to create a decent shower temp. Boiler is the unloved Icos HE12.